<h2>Dreamy 
Adirondacks</h2>
© Liang-Wu Cai, 1997

Adirondack has been in my mind ever since I encountered an inspiring fine art photography web page of Kurt Ross: Journeys Through Wild Light. His dreamy images of Adirondack deeply moved me, especially those otherworldly colors of Adirondack mornings. In my mind, Adirondack is forever associated with fogs: either a winding road blends into the fog with the sky, or just a thin layer of fog gathers on the surface of a lake, a river....

Prelude

The summer of 1997 in many ways was a very much academically-wasted summer for me. Originally I planned to graduate in June, and as a way of celebration, I'd carry out my long cherished dream of cross-country driving. The graduation day had passed, my advisor hadn't read my thesis yet....

I helplessly watched the calendar as days passed, and formulated my backup plan: stay in Adirondack for a week, camping and photographing; I'd put photography as my top priority, and I'd go solo since I was afraid that any companion would jeopardize this priority.

I eyed on the entire week from August 23 until Labor Day. But, the Friday before that week, my advisor informed that he would travel to California for a talk regarding a research project, and needed me to stay in touch until Thursday. Thursday afternoon, he arranged a conference telephone call so that I could talk to all technical personnel involved in the project.

That night, I fled, to pursue my Adirondack dreams...

Day One: Friday, August 29, 1997

I left home at around 1:30am, anticipating a 4 hour drive, I planned to shoot the sunrise in Lake George region. That night, Boston rained lightly. In Springfield, MA, the highway I-90 was immersed in a thick fog. When I approached Albany 2.5 hours later, it was raining pouringly, and the it was forecast a foggy morning. After another hour on I-87, I had passed the town of Lake George and was on the scenic Rt.9N along the western shore of Lake George.

Towns along 9N were still asleep. The air was fresh and wet. Lakeshore resorts flashed by... My timing was perfect. Not long into 9N, the sky had started to brighten, but the half-moon still hung aloft. My first stop was at a resort called Stepping Stone Resort near Diamond Point.

Quietly I leave, just as quietly I come; waving my sleeves, not bring a piece of cloud with me... (Chinese poet Xu Zhimo, Farewell to Cambridge)

As I moved along 9N, the sky was clearing, and I felt a rush to find the best location at the best time. Unfortunately the best places are always private properties. Occasionally I detoured into side roads toward the waterfront, sneaking into a private property, setup, shot and ran. I kept this "drive-by-shooting" through the towns of Bolton, Bolton Landing, Hague... Yeah, I did feel a bit poetic :-)

When I arrived at Hague, the Sun was already high up. Rt.9N wound through foggy mountains. Occasionally the Sun broke the fog briefly, and in just seconds, either clouds swiftly covered the Sun, or the road wound...

Shortly after Hague, a scenic lookout (the only one) along Rt.9N gave an expansive view of the Lake George: to the south-west, the picturesque Lake George embraced the warm morning Sun; to the north-east, a few clouds were brilliantly backlit by the Sun and hung below the mountain top, with the dark mountains as the backdrop...

Ticonderoga was another large gateway town to the Adirondacks. This was the first town awake so far, but ironically, it greeted me with a beautiful cemetery...

After Ticonderoga, I turned back to I-87 then Rt.73, west into the Park.

The first sure signs of my arriving at the Adirondack Park were my passing of the van Hoevenburg Olympic Training Center, then the Olympic Ski Jump Complex. Finally, the extremely bright white facade of the Olympic Center proclaimed, so unmistakably, that I had arrived at the heart of the Park -- the town of Lake Placid.

I didn't stop at Lake Placid except having a brunch at a McDonald's. My planned stop was the town of Paul Smith since it has one of the two state-operated Adirondack Park Visitor Interpretive Centers (VIC), which are also misleadingly called Visitor Centers. I counted on this "visitor center" for providing more information to finalize my daily itineraries.

Paul Smith's VIC turned out to be a total disappointment. It was not a visitor center at all! It's mere an educational facilities for kids. It didn't provide information about the park, the towns, except a handful of flyers of local businesses. I had to pull out my trusty AAA CampBook to look for a campground. I chose the public Meadowbrook Campground at Ray Brook for its proximity to the two largest towns in the park. I was really tired after the all-nighter driving and the 2 hours wasted at Paul Smith, I signed in for 3 days, set up the tent, and took a quick nap. I didn't have much energy left to enjoy the excitement of camping itself.

Recharged after the nap, I decided to use the remaining time of the day to visit some of "tourist spots", as an orientation to the area. Whiteface Mountain, High Falls Gorge and Olympic Ski Jump Complex came into my mind, all according to the AAA TourBook. I headed toward Lake Placid then north to Rt.86 to the Whiteface Mountain.

Rt.86 here winds along the beautiful Ausable River. High Falls Gorge is a segment of the river being fenced off with a $5.50 tag. It is claimed that the water falls 700 ft. The view is quite nice, but it not as grand the 700 ft should sound.

Further north, the Veterans' Memorial Highway (Rt.431) leads to almost the top of the Whiteface Mountain. Although it was a partly cloudy day in the town, at the entrance, I was told that the visibility at the summit was 60ft. "Will it clear later today?" I asked. "It has been in the clouds for 3 days!" Anyway, this was the only chance for me to visit the mountain...

The highway ends at the Veterans' Memorial Castle near the summit. The castle is completely immersed in the cloud. The fog was so thick that I couldn't even see clearly the sign on the flag flown over my head. There were two ways to the summit: take the elevator or hike a rocky path of 26 stories high. I was so excited by the mountains and decided to take the hard way. It was a shot yet intense hike. On my way, the Sun shined into the cloud where I was in. I guess I should look like an angle if someone look at me from afar :-)

On my way back, I wondered along the scenic Ausable River for a while. It was 6pm when I was back to Lake Placid again. I was trying to locate a spot to shoot the sunset over Mirror Lake. Unfortunately, wherever I went, it was private property. At such a dinnertime, the town appeared quite crowded that it took me quite a while to find a parking spot. When I finally parked my car, I had circled the town and the lake enough to conclude that Mirror Lake was not the best place to shoot the sunset anyway.

I walked to the back of the Mirror Lake toward Lake Placid (the lake), and found a public boat-launching area, and a nearby marina. Knowing that it was private property, I decided to take chances since it was already quite dark. Viewed from the dock, the sunset, albeit little too late, was spectacular! But too bad the dock was floating with the wave. Nonetheless, I shot away, hoping for the best.

I dined at a McDonald's again, and got back to my camp at 9pm. I set my alarm clock at 4:50 for the next morning, and planned to shoot sunrise at Upper Saranac Lake.

Day Two: Saturday, August 30, 1997

Woke up to the clock's alarm in the morning, I headed for the Upper Saranac Lake via Rts.86-186-30. It was a cloudy morning --- no sunrise. On my way there, all of a sudden, I saw two young deer standing at the road side staring at me. I stopped my car as smoothly as I could, and looked back. They were still there. I reached for my camera, and fitted a long lens. Damn, they were gone!

On the lake, a thick fog curtained the delicate light of the dawn, making the entire scene looked dreamy and romantic... These were all private properties, and they had hyperactive mosquitoes guarding them.

Moving toward the town of Tupper Lake, I detoured into a side road that runs parallel to Raquette River. In the early morning, the river was as calm as a mirror, and almost all living things but me (no mosquitoes here :-)) were still asleep. One stepping onto the grass could wake up a school of wild mallards screaming away.

I watched a vacationing family launched their boat onto the river, the boat motor hummed away and broke the mirror...

Again, I had a brunch at a McDonald's to start my day, and at the end, I asked for a cup of ice in put in the cooler that I used to keep all my films cool. I was looking into some kind of hiking somewhere between the towns of Tupper Lake and Blue Mountain Lake, but I couldn't get any information. Somehow, I drove aimlessly along Rt.30 South. Actually I was pretty happy for such aimlessness, since it fitted my "no destination, no hurry" mood of photography, and this was a beautiful road (listed in National Geographics' Scenic Highways and Byways) that passed through many nameless lakes, small and large. The only thing that saddened me was that Mother Nature kept reminding me, by those burning red colors, that the autumn was just around the corner.

I saw on the map the Rt.421 branches out from Rt.30 but ends in a few miles. I thought that could be something leading to a mountain, so I detoured into Rt 421. A road sign says the Horseshoe Lake is 4 miles away.

Under the noon sunlight of a partly cloudy day, Horseshoe Lake was short of anything special. Perhaps I had already grown bored with plain looks of rivers and mountains after being there for just 2 days.

Rt.421 continues after the lake. The pavement ends just about a mile further, then a dirt road forks out. A bumpy branch leads to an overcrowded parking lot at the Low's Lower Dam (on the Bog River) Flora Area, and local folks were launching their canoes. The view from the dam was very picturesque. I set up my tripod and waited a canoe to appear to decorate the foreground of my picture.

A snowmobile trail starts at the other end of the dam. I decided to hike the trial a bit. Wondering into the woods is my strategy for such a lousy lighting condition.... but I stumbled into a mosquito’s' heaven. In the trail, mosquitoes were all over me, even clothed areas. I was really hoping that I could have 4 or 5 hands to slap myself.... Just about 1/2 miles, and having literally killed hundreds of mosquitoes, I concluded that the trail was too unbearable and called a quit.

Down the Rt.421, I decided to go back to spend the afternoon in Paul Smith's VIC to do some close-up works in its butterfly house. But at the junction of Rts.3 and 30, I saw another trail. I had to admit that, without sufficient information of trails (as one of web sites listed at the end of this page proudly claims: there is no free info about Adirondack trails!), I was quite desperate to hike a trail in Adirondacks, any trail! So, there it was, the Trombley Landing Trail, which is 1.3 mile long. I'd just forget Paul Smith. This was an extremely easy trail with extremely boring views. I headed back as soon as I could after reaching the end, and went straight back to Lake Placid, planning to visit the Olympic Ski Jump Complex and the Olympic Center.

I hit another bummer finding out that the Olympic Ski Jump Complex was closed for the day at 4pm. Back to the town, I visited the Olympic Center. The Center mainly consists of two ice-skating rinks. One of them was open and some young skaters were practicing. I saw a little boy skated beautifully while showing off to other older girls. I regretted that I forgot to bring any ISO400 films for the trip.

On the side of the Olympic Center, tucked into a corner is an information center. I had finally found one! This information center has full of information I wanted. It has 3 wall full of informational flyers: one for Lake Placid, one for Saranc Lake and other areas, and one for businesses. I eagerly collected as many as I could, although I had had pretty much an idea about the park after the 2 days' of wondering.

I also toured the town a little bit. It was quite a typical tourist town, with the main street unfolds along the shore of Mirror Lake. The first day of Labor Day long weekend had seen a significant increase of tourists, as compared to the day before. Olympic decors were prominently displayed everywhere, which made me feel that the town itself cries "yesterday once more...." I stopped at a Chinese restaurant No. 1 Chinese Sea Food for a dinner, and scanned through brochures I just got. That was the first real meal I had in two days!

After that dinner, I went back to Saranc Late. I had decided that morning when I passed Lake Tolby, which was located at the north-west corner of the town across the Adirondack Medical Center, that this lake would be a spot for the sunset shooting. Lake Tolby has a public beach. The sunset was not spectacular, but as always, the twilight was beautiful in its own right. After the shooting, I happily headed back to the camp and went straight into a good night sleep.

Actually, that night I didn't sleep well. I felt extremely cold, although the temperature and the weather was much the same as the night before. Maybe it was the reaction due to the wild mosquito bites. And, an idiot in one of the campsites had his car alarm off 8 times in all the quietness!

Day Three: Sunday, August 31, 1997

I got up at 4:30am, and the destination on my mind was Raquatte Lake for the sunrise shooting. Raquatte Lake is about 60 miles from Saranac Lake. The name came into my attention when I saw a very nice sunrise picture while searching for Adirondack information over the web.

As I rushed through Tupper Lake, damn, a pickup truck suddenly flashed blue and white and pulled me off. "What's the hurry?!" "I am trying to take some pictures before the sun rises?" "Then you'd better get up earlier. Do you suppose to storm through a town like that?!" After checking out my driving records, "I won't write you a ticket this time, but if I see you drive like that the next time, I will!"

When I was back on the road, it was about 6am. I knew for sure I woouldn't be able to arrive at Raquette Late before sunrise. My mind went blank. Driving southbound and passing the bridge over the Raquette Pond, I saw the eastern horizon was glowing beautifully, and the Sun is about to rise. I thanked the police that the stopping blessed me with such a perfect timing for such a beautiful sunrise. I pulled off at the end of the bridge, and hurried to the bridge.

The sky in the eastern sky had some clouds above the horizon. The surface of the Raqutte Pond had a layer of mist evaporating from the water. A fisherman was on a canoe under the bridge greeted me with a strange look :-) I setup the tripod and shot away, with all kinds of lenses in my camera bag, from super wide angle to tele. Gradually, half of the sky turned pink, even the western sky turned purple. The sky continued to change and brighten. The sun under the horizon drew bright outlines of almost every piece of cloud. Then, all colors subsided. Few minutes later, the Sun came out, but behind the fog. The layer of mist above the water was lit brilliantly by the Sun, and looked like glowing under the sky.... I have shot many sunrises in the past year, but this was the one I would call breathtaking. I finished one roll of film in about 30 minutes.
Click here for a complete series of sunrise photos.

I had another roll of Fuji Sensia in my camera bag. I was in a little dilemma: should I load the Sensia, or walk back to the car to get another Velvia, a film with more color brilliance? Or, just simply move on to the next location? I decided to walk back to my car. Looked back, I was convinced that I should definitely not to miss this currently present opportunity and search for unknowns. So, I loaded the camera and back to the scene. It was just about 3 minutes, but now the Sun was quite high over the sky, filtered through a thin mist and cast a yellowish color that was even visible by the naked eyes. I composed still a few more shots. While I was loading the film, a Canon shooter pulled off and hopped over the bridge, with a Canon's boostered pro camera and the famous 35-350 zoom, no tripod! He clicked away, murmuring "Beautiful!" :-)

I walked away as a happy man.

Moving on, I drove further south toward Long Lake. A section of the road rolled in front of me and blended into the fog, along with the trees and mountains. Along the way, on the roadside, over a bog or a pond, the mist above the water had started to dissipate, and they even looked fibrous...

At Long Lake, the Sun was high over the sky. The early morning Sun was still soft and gentle. The fog over the lakes had not completely disappeared. The scene was completely different in the moods, as compared to that in the Raquette Pond. The sunrise at Raquette Pond was extraordinarily intense and glorious. But the mood here was soft, gentle and romantic. Indeed, I always have the impression that the fog makes romantic people.

Leaving Long Lake, I drove further south toward my originally planned destiny: Lake Raquette. Just outside the village of Long Lake, I saw a road sign leading to the Buttermilk Falls. I remember reading somewhere on the web claiming this to be a "much photographed" waterfall. So I detoured. Not far into this side road, out of no where was a deer crossing the road just about 2 meters in front of my car, and, at the end, showed me a beautiful pose with its slim figure and before it disappeared into the woods. I was stunned.

Buttermilk Falls is just a short walk from the road. The water (Bog River) descents about 30 ft in a long range of rocks. The scene is no much special, just plainly classic. (So, "much-photographed" is indeed a very accurate description.) But, listening to the sound of falling water in deep woods in such an early morning is quite romantic, and there were a few couples enjoying such romance.

Further south, Rts.30 and 28 splits at the town of Blue Mountain Lake, and Lake Raquette is located on Rt.28. Just after the split, I stopped by a small shop called Steamboat Landing to see whether I could get some maps or guide books. But I was dumbfounded by the news pouring out of the radio: the death of the Princess of Wales. A couple from England stopped by and, over the speech of British prime minister, asked me "What happened?" "Diana is dead." I replied dumbly. "Are you kidding me?!" ....

Rt.28 goes along the Blue Mountain Lake for some distance, with numerous cottages along the lake shore. A few miles into the road, I sensed that there was another lake to left of the road. I followed a dirt road nearby, expecting to reach yet another boat-launching site on a lake. Unfortunately, only after 4 or 5 miles into the dirt road I realized that the dirt road led into woods instead of a lake, since it was a tractor path for transporting lumbers.

Driving further into Rt.28, the road becomes less traveled, and villages become smaller and smaller. Photography-wise, nothing spectacular under the cloudy sky. On the way, I made up my plan for the afternoon: I'd go back to Lake Placid to see the Olympic Ski Jump Complex, and then shoot the sunset from Mt. Baker near Saranac Lake. And the next day, I'd shoot sunrise at Indian Lake, and then back to Blue Mountain Lake to hike the Blue Mountain Trail, then head home.

As soon as I reached the village of Raquette Lake, without wasting time, I turned back, and headed straight to the Olympic Ski Jump Complex.

The Ski Jump Complex is a pair of remarkable concrete structures. The starting points are 75m and 120m, respectively, above the ground. It is said that the first ski jump, built in the 20's, takes 15 days of continuous casting of concretes! The view from the top was breathtaking (in part because of the height and the rusty- looking squeaky-sounding supporting frames :-)). This was the first time when I was high above the ground seeing the surrounding towns, lakes, rivers...

Down from the Ski Jump and back to Saranac Lake, the radio forecast 40% chances of shower. I was also very sleepy. I decided to take a quick nap, and "wait and see" regarding the shower. Till 5pm, I only saw the sky darkened without any indication of an immediate shower. So I started climbing Mt. Baker.

Mt. Baker is located on the east side of the town. I found the trail recommendation, as well as the trail head location, from a brochure I got from Lake Placid's visitor center. The trail is only 0.9 mile long, and ascends 900 ft. It was a rather easy hike, although the trail markers were helpless. The top of the mountain was full of trees. There was only one area with an unobscured view of the south side of the town and the surrounding lakes. Since a shower was on the way, I couldn't see the Sun, except some clouds over the southern sky being tinted orange briefly. The sunset was a disappointment. I waited until I estimated that the Sun had gone down the mountains, and started descending the mountain. Actually, the trail markers were so badly placed that I lost the trail immediately after I left the summit. It was dark. I descended the mountain based on my own sense of direction. When I got down to the trail head, total darkness had gulped everything, including my camera's battery :-)

That night, in my sleeping bag in my tent, hearing the pouring rain outside.... It was so wonderful!

Day Four: Monday (Labor Day), September 1, 1997

My alarm clock woke me up at 3:30am. Poking out of the tent, I saw a thick fog just like when I was on the top of Whiteface Mountain. With such a fog, even the Sun would become powerless. So I decided to went back to sleep. For the first time in 4 days, I tried to "wake up like other people". :-)

I finally got up at 8:30. Pack up all my belongings, and headed toward Indian Lake. On the way, took one shot at Lake Durant, and a couple shots at Adinrondack Lake for the namesake.

Indian Lake stretches a few miles along Rt. 30. The most scenic portion is the Lake Shore Drive off Rt.30 in the village of Sabael. As expected, there are all private properties along the shore, and probably I'd gotten enough of the scenes of lakes...

I then headed back to Blue Mountain Lake. The Blue Mountain Trail is probably the most popular trail in the Adirondacks, judged by the number of cars in the trailhead parking lot. This is a 2 mile hike ascending 1550 ft (the summit is 3798ft above sea level). Basically the trail goes along a mountain stream. The first mile is mostly on the small rocky streambed, and the last mile is on the surface of large rocks. The rain of the previous night made the trail slippery. I didn't keep track of time. "Hiking and photographing" is exactly what I was doing at the same time. The top of the mountain was flat and bald, with a fire observation tower providing an excellent view of the surrounding areas. But the day was very hazy...

An old gentleman emerged, handed me an old plastic Kodak's camera that takes 126 film. He said, as a small group of people listened, that he hiked the mountain every year, and it took him 100 minutes this time. He is a biology professor in Rockefeller University. He rested for 5 minutes and took off descending. Few minutes later, a young 20-ish couple emerged, and the girl seemed to be completely exhausted. It was quite a contrast scene.

Descending the mountain around 4pm, I started to head home. I did another "drive-by shooting" along the way in Lake Mason and the towns of Spectalator, Hope. Finally I stopped by the town of Northvill for a dinner. Then shot the sunset at the east shore of Great Sacandaga Lake. The sunset wasn't anything special while I was at it. So I swiftly left to continue the last leg of my trip in Adirondacks. But I kept looking at the western sky while I was driving. At the juncture of Rt.30 and Rt.29, at a small town called Veille Mills about 3 miles north Amsterdam, I saw the western sky was beautifully purple. I pulled off to the side of the road, and snapped the last shot of my trip.

Before midnight, I arrived at home, with 1175 miles registered on the odometer, and $45 dollars of gas consumed.


Web Resources Regarding Adirondack Park


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Last Modified: Septembet 30, 1997.