
© Liang-Wu
Cai, 1997
Adirondack has been in my mind ever since I encountered an inspiring fine art
photography web page of Kurt Ross: Journeys
Through Wild Light. His dreamy images of Adirondack deeply moved me,
especially those otherworldly colors of Adirondack mornings. In my mind, Adirondack
is forever associated with fogs: either a winding road blends into the fog with the sky,
or just a thin layer of fog gathers on the surface of a lake, a river....
Prelude
The summer of 1997 in many ways was a very much academically-wasted summer
for me. Originally I planned to graduate in June, and as a way of
celebration, I'd carry out my long cherished dream of cross-country
driving. The graduation day had passed, my advisor hadn't read my thesis
yet....
I helplessly watched the calendar as days passed, and formulated my
backup plan: stay in Adirondack for a week, camping and photographing; I'd
put photography as my top priority, and I'd go solo since I was afraid that
any companion would jeopardize this priority.
I eyed on the entire week from August 23 until Labor Day. But, the
Friday before that week, my advisor informed that he would travel to
California for a talk regarding a research project, and needed me to stay
in touch until Thursday. Thursday afternoon, he arranged a conference
telephone call so that I could talk to all technical personnel involved in
the project.
That night, I fled, to pursue my Adirondack dreams...
Day One: Friday, August 29, 1997
I left home at around 1:30am, anticipating a 4 hour drive, I planned to shoot the
sunrise in Lake George region. That night, Boston rained lightly. In Springfield, MA,
the highway I-90 was immersed in a thick fog. When I approached Albany 2.5 hours
later, it was raining pouringly, and the it was forecast a foggy morning. After another
hour on I-87, I had passed the town of Lake George and was on the scenic Rt.9N
along the western shore of Lake George.
Towns along 9N were still asleep. The air was fresh and wet. Lakeshore resorts
flashed by... My timing was perfect. Not long into 9N, the sky had started to brighten,
but the half-moon still hung aloft. My first stop was at a resort called Stepping
Stone Resort near Diamond Point.
Quietly I leave, just as quietly I come; waving my sleeves, not bring a
piece of cloud with me... (Chinese poet Xu Zhimo, Farewell to
Cambridge)
As I moved along 9N, the sky was clearing, and I felt a rush to find the best
location at the best time. Unfortunately the best places are always private properties.
Occasionally I detoured into side roads toward the waterfront, sneaking into a private
property, setup, shot and ran. I kept this "drive-by-shooting" through the towns of
Bolton, Bolton Landing, Hague... Yeah, I did feel a bit poetic :-)
When I arrived at Hague, the Sun was already high up. Rt.9N wound
through foggy mountains. Occasionally the Sun broke the fog briefly, and in just
seconds, either clouds swiftly covered the Sun, or the road wound...
Shortly after Hague, a scenic lookout (the only one) along Rt.9N gave an
expansive view of the Lake George:
to the south-west, the picturesque Lake George embraced the warm morning Sun; to
the north-east, a few clouds were brilliantly backlit by the Sun and hung below the
mountain top, with the dark mountains as the backdrop...
Ticonderoga was another large gateway town to the Adirondacks. This was the
first town awake so far, but ironically, it greeted me with a beautiful cemetery...
After Ticonderoga, I turned back to I-87 then Rt.73, west into the Park.
The first sure signs of my arriving at the Adirondack Park were my passing
of the van Hoevenburg Olympic Training Center, then the Olympic Ski
Jump Complex. Finally, the extremely bright white facade of the Olympic Center
proclaimed, so unmistakably, that I had arrived at the heart of the Park -- the town of
Lake Placid.
I didn't stop at Lake Placid except having a brunch at a McDonald's. My
planned stop was the town of Paul Smith since it has one of the two state-operated
Adirondack Park Visitor Interpretive Centers (VIC), which are also
misleadingly called Visitor Centers. I counted on this "visitor center" for
providing more information to finalize my daily itineraries.
Paul Smith's VIC turned out to be a total disappointment. It was not a
visitor center at all! It's mere an educational facilities for kids. It didn't provide
information about the park, the towns, except a handful of flyers of local businesses. I
had to pull out my trusty AAA CampBook to look for a campground. I chose the public
Meadowbrook Campground at Ray Brook for its proximity to the two largest towns in
the park. I was really tired after the all-nighter driving and the 2 hours wasted at Paul
Smith, I signed in for 3 days, set up the tent, and took a quick nap. I didn't have
much energy left to enjoy the excitement of camping itself.
Recharged after the nap, I decided to use the remaining time of the day to
visit some of "tourist spots", as an orientation to the area.
Whiteface Mountain, High Falls Gorge and Olympic Ski Jump Complex came
into my mind, all according to the AAA TourBook. I headed toward Lake Placid then
north to Rt.86 to the Whiteface Mountain.
Rt.86 here winds along the beautiful Ausable River. High Falls
Gorge is a segment of the river being fenced off with a $5.50 tag. It is claimed that
the water falls 700 ft. The view is quite nice, but it not as grand the 700 ft should
sound.
Further north, the Veterans' Memorial Highway (Rt.431) leads to
almost the top of the Whiteface Mountain. Although it was a partly cloudy day in the
town, at the entrance, I was told that the visibility at the summit was 60ft. "Will it
clear later today?" I asked. "It has been in the clouds for 3 days!" Anyway, this was
the only chance for me to visit the mountain...
The highway ends at the Veterans' Memorial Castle near the summit.
The castle is completely immersed in the cloud. The fog was so thick that I couldn't
even see clearly the sign on the flag flown over my head. There were two ways to the
summit: take the elevator or hike a rocky path of 26 stories high. I was so excited by
the mountains and decided to take the hard way. It was a shot yet intense hike. On
my way, the Sun shined into the cloud where I was in. I guess I should look like an
angle if someone look at me from afar :-)
On my way back, I wondered along the scenic Ausable River for a while. It
was 6pm when I was back to Lake Placid again. I was trying to locate a spot to shoot
the sunset over Mirror Lake. Unfortunately, wherever I went, it was private
property. At such a dinnertime, the town appeared quite crowded that it took me
quite a while to find a parking spot. When I finally parked my car, I had circled the
town and the lake enough to conclude that Mirror Lake was not the best place to
shoot the sunset anyway.
I walked to the back of the Mirror Lake toward Lake Placid (the lake),
and found a public boat-launching area, and a nearby marina. Knowing that it was
private property, I decided to take chances since it was already quite dark. Viewed
from the dock, the sunset, albeit little too late, was spectacular! But too bad the dock
was floating with the wave. Nonetheless, I shot away, hoping for the best.
I dined at a McDonald's again, and got back to my camp at 9pm. I set my
alarm clock at 4:50 for the next morning, and planned to shoot sunrise at Upper
Saranac Lake.
Day Two: Saturday, August 30, 1997
Woke up to the clock's alarm in the morning, I headed for the Upper Saranac Lake via
Rts.86-186-30. It was a cloudy morning --- no sunrise. On my way there, all of a
sudden, I saw two young deer standing at the road side staring at me. I stopped my
car as smoothly as I could, and looked back. They were still there. I reached for my
camera, and fitted a long lens. Damn, they were gone!
On the lake, a thick fog curtained the delicate light of the dawn, making the
entire scene looked dreamy and romantic... These were all private properties, and
they had hyperactive mosquitoes guarding them.
Moving toward the town of Tupper Lake, I detoured into a side road
that runs parallel to Raquette River.
In the early morning, the river was as calm as a mirror, and almost all living things
but me (no mosquitoes here :-)) were still asleep. One stepping onto the grass could
wake up a school of wild mallards screaming away.
I watched a vacationing family launched their boat onto the river, the boat
motor hummed away and broke the mirror...
Again, I had a brunch at a McDonald's to start my day, and at the end, I
asked for a cup of ice in put in the cooler that I used to keep all my films cool.
I was looking into some kind of hiking somewhere between the towns of Tupper Lake
and Blue Mountain Lake, but I couldn't get any information. Somehow, I
drove aimlessly along Rt.30 South.
Actually I was pretty happy for such aimlessness, since it fitted my "no destination,
no hurry" mood of photography, and this was a beautiful road (listed in National
Geographics' Scenic Highways and Byways) that passed through many nameless
lakes, small and large. The only thing that saddened me was that Mother Nature kept
reminding me, by those burning red colors, that the autumn was just around the
corner.
I saw on the map the Rt.421 branches out from Rt.30 but ends in a few
miles. I thought that could be something leading to a mountain, so I detoured into Rt
421. A road sign says the Horseshoe Lake is 4 miles away.
Under the noon sunlight of a partly cloudy day, Horseshoe Lake was short
of anything special. Perhaps I had already grown bored with plain looks of rivers and
mountains after being there for just 2 days.
Rt.421 continues after the lake. The pavement ends just about a mile
further, then a dirt road forks out. A bumpy branch leads to an overcrowded parking
lot at the Low's Lower Dam (on the Bog River) Flora Area, and local folks
were launching their canoes.
The view from the dam was very picturesque. I set up my tripod and waited a canoe
to appear to decorate the foreground of my picture.
A snowmobile trail starts at the other end of the dam. I decided to hike the
trial a bit. Wondering into the woods is my strategy for such a lousy lighting
condition.... but I stumbled into a mosquito’s' heaven.
In the trail, mosquitoes were all over me, even clothed areas. I was really hoping that
I could have 4 or 5 hands to slap myself.... Just about 1/2 miles, and having literally
killed hundreds of mosquitoes, I concluded that the trail was too unbearable and
called a quit.
Down the Rt.421, I decided to go back to spend the afternoon in Paul
Smith's VIC to do some close-up works in its butterfly house. But at the junction of
Rts.3 and 30, I saw another trail.
I had to admit that, without sufficient information of trails (as one of web sites listed
at the end of this page proudly claims: there is no free info about Adirondack trails!),
I was quite desperate to hike a trail in Adirondacks, any trail! So, there it was, the
Trombley Landing Trail, which is 1.3 mile long. I'd just forget Paul Smith.
This was an extremely easy trail with extremely boring views. I headed back as soon
as I could after reaching the end, and went straight back to Lake Placid, planning to
visit the Olympic Ski Jump Complex and the Olympic Center.
I hit another bummer finding out that the Olympic Ski Jump Complex was
closed for the day at 4pm. Back to the town, I visited the Olympic Center.
The Center mainly consists of two ice-skating rinks. One of them was open and some
young skaters were practicing. I saw a little boy skated beautifully while showing off
to other older girls. I regretted that I forgot to bring any ISO400 films for the trip.
On the side of the Olympic Center, tucked into a corner is an information
center. I had finally found one! This information center has full of information I
wanted. It has 3 wall full of informational flyers: one for Lake Placid, one for Saranc
Lake and other areas, and one for businesses. I eagerly collected as many as I could,
although I had had pretty much an idea about the park after the 2 days' of
wondering.
I also toured the town a little bit. It was quite a typical tourist town, with
the main street unfolds along the shore of Mirror Lake. The first day of Labor Day long
weekend had seen a significant increase of tourists, as compared to the day before.
Olympic decors were prominently displayed everywhere, which made me feel that the
town itself cries "yesterday once more...." I stopped at a Chinese restaurant No. 1
Chinese Sea Food for a dinner, and scanned through brochures I just got. That
was the first real meal I had in two days!
After that dinner, I went back to Saranc Late. I had decided that morning
when I passed Lake Tolby, which was located at the north-west corner of the town
across the Adirondack Medical Center, that this lake would be a spot for the
sunset shooting.
Lake Tolby has a public beach. The sunset was not spectacular, but as always, the
twilight was beautiful in its own right. After the shooting, I happily headed back to the
camp and went straight into a good night sleep.
Actually, that night I didn't sleep well. I felt extremely cold, although the
temperature and the weather was much the same as the night before. Maybe it was
the reaction due to the wild mosquito bites. And, an idiot in one of the campsites had
his car alarm off 8 times in all the quietness! Day Three: Sunday, August 31,
1997
I got up at 4:30am, and the destination on my mind was Raquatte Lake for
the sunrise shooting. Raquatte Lake is about 60 miles from Saranac Lake. The name
came into my attention when I saw a very nice sunrise picture while searching for
Adirondack information over the web.
As I rushed through Tupper Lake, damn, a pickup truck suddenly flashed
blue and white and pulled me off. "What's the hurry?!" "I am trying to take some
pictures before the sun rises?" "Then you'd better get up earlier. Do you suppose to
storm through a town like that?!" After checking out my driving records, "I won't
write you a ticket this time, but if I see you drive like that the next time, I will!"
When I was back on the road, it was about 6am. I knew for sure I
woouldn't be able to arrive at Raquette Late before sunrise. My mind went blank.
Driving southbound and passing the bridge over the Raquette Pond, I saw the eastern
horizon was glowing beautifully, and the Sun is about to rise. I thanked the police that
the stopping blessed me with such a perfect timing for such a beautiful sunrise. I
pulled off at the end of the bridge, and hurried to the bridge.
The sky in the eastern sky had some clouds above the horizon. The surface
of the Raqutte Pond had a layer of mist evaporating from the water. A fisherman was
on a canoe under the bridge greeted me with a strange look :-) I setup the tripod and
shot away, with all kinds of lenses in my camera bag, from super wide angle to tele.
Gradually, half of the sky turned pink, even the western sky turned purple. The sky
continued to change and brighten. The sun under the horizon drew bright outlines of
almost every piece of cloud. Then, all colors subsided. Few minutes later, the Sun
came out, but behind the fog. The layer of mist above the water was lit brilliantly by
the Sun, and looked like glowing under the sky.... I have shot many sunrises in the
past year, but this was the one I would call breathtaking. I finished one roll of
film in about 30 minutes.
I had another roll of Fuji Sensia in my camera bag. I was in a little
dilemma: should I load the Sensia, or walk back to the car to get another Velvia, a
film with more color brilliance? Or, just simply move on to the next location? I decided
to walk back to my car. Looked back, I was convinced that I should definitely not to
miss this currently present opportunity and search for unknowns. So, I loaded the
camera and back to the scene. It was just about 3 minutes, but now the Sun was
quite high over the sky, filtered through a thin mist and cast a yellowish color that
was even visible by the naked eyes. I composed still a few more shots. While I was
loading the film, a Canon shooter pulled off and hopped over the bridge, with a
Canon's boostered pro camera and the famous 35-350 zoom, no tripod! He clicked
away, murmuring "Beautiful!" :-)
I walked away as a happy man.
Moving on, I drove further south toward Long Lake. A section of
the road rolled in front of me and blended into the fog, along with the trees and
mountains.
Along the way, on the roadside, over a bog or a pond, the mist above the water had
started to dissipate, and they even looked fibrous...
At Long Lake, the Sun was high over the sky. The early morning Sun was
still soft and gentle. The fog over the lakes had not completely disappeared. The
scene was completely different in the moods, as compared to that in the Raquette
Pond. The sunrise at Raquette Pond was extraordinarily intense and glorious.
But the mood here was soft, gentle and romantic. Indeed, I always have the
impression that the fog makes romantic people.
Leaving Long Lake, I drove further south toward my originally planned
destiny: Lake Raquette. Just outside the village of Long Lake, I saw a road sign
leading to the Buttermilk Falls. I remember reading somewhere on the web
claiming this to be a "much photographed" waterfall. So I detoured. Not far into this
side road, out of no where was a deer crossing the road just about 2 meters in front
of my car, and, at the end, showed me a beautiful pose with its slim figure and before
it disappeared into the woods. I was stunned.
Buttermilk Falls is just a short walk from the road. The water (Bog River)
descents about 30 ft in a long range of rocks.
The scene is no much special, just plainly classic. (So, "much-photographed" is indeed
a very accurate description.) But, listening to the sound of falling water in deep woods
in such an early morning is quite romantic, and there were a few couples enjoying
such romance.
Further south, Rts.30 and 28 splits at the town of Blue Mountain
Lake, and Lake Raquette is located on Rt.28. Just after the split, I stopped by a
small shop called Steamboat Landing to see whether I could get some maps
or guide books. But I was dumbfounded by the news pouring out of the radio: the
death of the Princess of Wales. A couple from England stopped by and, over the
speech of British prime minister, asked me "What happened?" "Diana is dead." I
replied dumbly. "Are you kidding me?!" ....
Rt.28 goes along the Blue Mountain Lake for some distance, with numerous
cottages along the lake shore. A few miles into the road, I sensed that there was
another lake to left of the road. I followed a dirt road nearby, expecting to reach yet
another boat-launching site on a lake. Unfortunately, only after 4 or 5 miles into the
dirt road I realized that the dirt road led into woods instead of a lake, since it was a
tractor path for transporting lumbers.
Driving further into Rt.28, the road becomes less traveled, and villages
become smaller and smaller. Photography-wise, nothing spectacular under the cloudy
sky. On the way, I made up my plan for the afternoon: I'd go back to Lake Placid to
see the Olympic Ski Jump Complex, and then shoot the sunset from Mt. Baker near
Saranac Lake. And the next day, I'd shoot sunrise at Indian Lake, and then back to
Blue Mountain Lake to hike the Blue Mountain Trail, then head home.
As soon as I reached the village of Raquette Lake, without wasting time, I
turned back, and headed straight to the Olympic Ski Jump Complex.
The Ski Jump Complex is a pair of remarkable concrete structures. The
starting points are 75m and 120m, respectively, above the ground.
It is said that the first ski jump, built in the 20's, takes 15 days of continuous casting
of concretes!
The view from the top was breathtaking (in part because of the height and the rusty-
looking squeaky-sounding supporting frames :-)). This was the first time when I was
high above the ground seeing the surrounding towns, lakes, rivers...
Down from the Ski Jump and back to Saranac Lake, the radio forecast 40%
chances of shower. I was also very sleepy. I decided to take a quick nap, and "wait
and see" regarding the shower. Till 5pm, I only saw the sky darkened without any
indication of an immediate shower. So I started climbing Mt. Baker.
Mt. Baker is located on the east side of the town. I found the trail
recommendation, as well as the trail head location, from a brochure I got from Lake
Placid's visitor center. The trail is only 0.9 mile long, and ascends 900 ft.
It was a rather easy hike, although the trail markers were helpless. The top of the
mountain was full of trees. There was only one area with an unobscured view of the
south side of the town and the surrounding lakes. Since a shower was on the way, I
couldn't see the Sun, except some clouds over the southern sky being tinted orange
briefly. The sunset was a disappointment. I waited until I estimated that the Sun had
gone down the mountains, and started descending the mountain. Actually, the trail
markers were so badly placed that I lost the trail immediately after I left the summit.
It was dark. I descended the mountain based on my own sense of direction. When I
got down to the trail head, total darkness had gulped everything, including my
camera's battery :-) That night, in my sleeping bag in my tent, hearing the
pouring rain outside.... It was so wonderful!
Day Four: Monday (Labor Day), September 1, 1997
My alarm clock woke me up at 3:30am. Poking out of the tent, I saw a thick fog just
like when I was on the top of Whiteface Mountain. With such a fog, even the Sun
would become powerless. So I decided to went back to sleep. For the first time in 4
days, I tried to "wake up like other people". :-)
I finally got up at 8:30. Pack up all my belongings, and headed toward
Indian Lake.
On the way, took one shot at Lake Durant, and a couple shots at
Adinrondack Lake for the namesake.
Indian Lake stretches a few miles along Rt. 30. The most scenic portion is
the Lake Shore Drive off Rt.30 in the village of Sabael. As expected, there are all
private properties along the shore, and probably I'd gotten enough of the scenes of
lakes...
I then headed back to Blue Mountain Lake. The Blue Mountain
Trail is probably the most popular trail in the Adirondacks, judged by the
number of cars in the trailhead parking lot.
This is a 2 mile hike ascending 1550 ft (the summit is 3798ft above sea level).
Basically the trail goes along a mountain stream. The first mile is mostly on the small
rocky streambed, and the last mile is on the surface of large rocks. The rain of the
previous night made the trail slippery. I didn't keep track of time. "Hiking and
photographing" is exactly what I was doing at the same time.
The top of the mountain was flat and bald, with a fire observation tower providing an
excellent view of the surrounding areas. But the day was very hazy...
An old gentleman emerged, handed me an old plastic Kodak's camera that
takes 126 film. He said, as a small group of people listened, that he hiked the
mountain every year, and it took him 100 minutes this time. He is a biology professor
in Rockefeller University. He rested for 5 minutes and took off descending. Few
minutes later, a young 20-ish couple emerged, and the girl seemed to be completely
exhausted. It was quite a contrast scene.
Descending the mountain around 4pm, I started to head home. I did
another "drive-by shooting" along the way in Lake Mason and the towns of
Spectalator, Hope.
Finally I stopped by the town of Northvill for a dinner. Then shot the sunset at the
east shore of Great Sacandaga Lake. The sunset wasn't anything special while I was
at it. So I swiftly left to continue the last leg of my trip in Adirondacks.
But I kept looking at the western sky while I was driving. At the juncture of Rt.30 and
Rt.29, at a small town called Veille Mills about 3 miles north Amsterdam, I saw the
western sky was beautifully purple. I pulled off to the side of the road, and snapped
the last shot of my trip.
Before midnight, I arrived at home, with 1175 miles registered on the
odometer, and $45 dollars of gas consumed.
Web Resources Regarding Adirondack Park
Back to My Color Book
Last Modified: Septembet 30, 1997.