Home Internegging
by Liang-Wu Cai
Summary:
This document details my experiment with making inter-negatives using generic print
films in order to obtain "cheap print from slides". For those who are still
debating with themselves, this document shows you why I am settled. For those who
want to try making interneg, this is your step-by-step tutorial.
Since lots of photographs are included in order to compare the results in every
stage of the experiment, this document is split into several smaller pieces for faster
loading.
Preamble
It is a consensus that it is very hard to make prints from slides. If possible at all,
it must be expensive. To search for the truth (and a truce), I endeavored two series of
experiments. The first series compares the enlargements
made from slides. The conclusion was: for enlargements, fine machine prints
(such as Kodak's premium processing), either "Type R" or Ilfochrome, are of great
quality that I can settle with, and at the price that I can afford.
Here is the second series. The goal of this series is smaller prints (4"x6")
that are commonly requested by friends, and cheap is the keyword.
I've found a local place that offers 4"x6" print (by Qualex) made from slides
amazingly cheap at $0.47 each, and that price even includes having an interneg
made! Unfortunately, I am not that thrilled by the sharpness of the interneg made by
the lab. So, I am seeking a way to make my own interneg, using regular el
cheapo print films.
The perspective as I see it: I can buy el cheapo but brand-name
print films at $1.50 to $2.00 for a 24 exposure roll, and the 4"x6" processing at
Qualex costs slightly over $3. This totals $5.00 for 25 photos, which goes about $0.20
per photo (and the same price for reprinting from negatives).
I am sure many people would suggest using interneg films. But, that is a
specialty film that is not all convenient to get, to use, and to process. All in all, I am
cheap. I believe that the large exposure latitude of the generic print films could be
exploited, and the general sloppiness of machine printing could easily write-off all
advantages of specialty films. If the quality of machine print is not acceptable to you,
then, go to the direct print route: either "Type R" or Ilfochrome.
Hardware Setup
The hardware setup needs the capability to achieve the desired 1:1 (or slightly
larger) reproduction ratio. For a better result, the camera must have multiple-
exposure capability. An external flash unit is used as the light source. Flash TTL
metering capability is desirable.
The following are used in this experiment: Nikon N90s (with MF-26) + Micro-Nikkor
55mm f/2.8 AIS + PK13 extension ring + ES-1
slide copying adapter. This setup is Nikon's low-budget standard setup for slide
duplication in the mechanical era (standard in the sense that both PK-13 and the ES-1
are designed specifically for the micro lens). The light source is Nikon's SB-26
Speedlight placed directly facing the camera 1 ft (arbitrarily and approximately) away
and connected to the camera via SC-17 TTL flash sync cord. TTL flash metering
(center-weighted) is used for the maximum flexibility.
It must be noted that all exposure compensation values used in the
experiments are particular to the above setup. If you are using other camera, these
data should only be used as a general reference, and do your own
experiments by following these procedures.
Preparation
In a preparatory study, I used the above setup took 3 shots, with exposure
compensation values of 0, +1 and +2 EV. Results were all severely underexposed,
but, by extrapolation, suggested that a +3 EV compensation was about right. The
design of this set of experiment is little bit more deliberate in choosing the samples to
use. I chose 4 slides:
- High contrast scenic: The State House of New Hampshire. Taken at
11am in a bright sunny day. Film: Fuji Sensia 100.
- Low contrast scenic: Early morning snow scene at MIT. Slight over
exposure makes it low contrast. Film: Fuji Sensia 100. (Here is a photo page containing technical data.)
- High contrast people: People in snow scene in late afternoon using a
high contrast film. Film: Fuji Velvia (ISO 50).
- Low contrast people: Dark-brown skinned girl in overcast afternoon.
Film: Fuji Sensia 400. (Here is a photo page
containing technical data.)
These slides have all been scanned previously using Polaroid SprintScan 35 film scanner, with minimal
digital processing and represent faithful reproduction of the visual effect of the slides.
(But in some case, there are difficulties to correct the color cast due to the scanning
process.)
Round One
Technical Information:
- Films: Kodak Gold 200. (The film choice is purely random. I've
switched to shooting slides, want to finish off left-over of prints films.)
- Exposure: Each slide was exposed at +3, +4 and +5EV exposure
compensations. Shutter speed 1/60", aperture f/11.
- Processing: Although I specifically marked on the ordering
envelope "No color and exposure corrections!!!", Qualex simply ignored the
instruction when it made the 4"x6" machine prints. Oh well, I want something
"cheap", so.... Prints are scanned using exactly the same set of parameters.
The Comparison:
All photos with +3EV to +5EV exposure compensation appeared to be properly
exposed. In some photos, +5EV compensation seemed to have a slight color shift.
Otherwise, without the exposure data and the imprinting of the frame number on the
photo, I don't think I would be able to distinguish the different exposures.
For this reason, in the following only one photo is chosen for each slide. The
left column are scanned from original slides, and the right column are scanned from
prints made in this round of trial. Note the images included here are not intended for
comparing the sharpness. Instead, they are given here to give an overall visual
effects such as contrast, color fidelity, etc. A high compression ratio was used
in making these JPEG files.
Conclusion from Round One:
- The right exposure using TTL flash metering can be obtained with an
exposure compensation between +3 and +4 EV. The reason for such a huge amount
of compensation remains a mystery, and Nikon was not able to provide a satisfactory
explanation.
- The photos made this way have very noticeable contrast built-up. It gives
pleasing results for low contrast photos. But for high contrast photos, highlight areas
are washed-out, and people's faces become very flat.
Go on to Part II: Round
Two
Back to my Film Study Page
Last updated: July 1, 1997.