David Judson Hogarth
49 Symphony Road, Suite 39
Boston MA 02115-4011 USA
home: 617-267-9699
cell: 617-669-6259
davidh@mit.edu
http://web.mit.edu/davidh/www/
Christmass 2005

Greetings from Boston as the year winds down. Were I fastidious about perfect grammar and syntax with this note, I doubt it would finish in time for me to get packing done for return in a few days to Burma and the Anglican Seminary in Rangoons.
It seems like yesterday that I was celebrating Thanksgiving with Jessica, Alex, Pramila, and Santosh. As I noted a year ago, I had three big events before taking off for teaching in Rangoon: Santosh's 3 ^rd birthday on 5 December, serving as Deacon at the Christmass Eve Eucharist at Saint Chrysostom's in Wollaston, and the first Christmass with my grandchildren Pramila and Santosh.
Then, the week before Christmass, we learned that the legal process for Pramila and Santosh's adoption was to be completed on Boxing Day - what a gift! Arrived with the other grandfather, Gil Murray, with Jessica, Alex, Pramila, and Santosh so early in the morning. The Court Clerk was helpful, became the de-facto photographer for the event. If one needs a reincarnation of Santa Claus, he was present in the presiding Judge. That process completed, Pramila and Santosh are finally at home, citizens of the USA.
Just as I was leaving Boston, I received e-mail from Adrian's mother, my friend Liz Shepherd. Adrian and Kyoko (at whose marriage I had officiated in Phuket two years before) were missing after the Tsunami; it was impossible to reach Phuket. Agonizing days later, we learned that the couple had survived. Shortly thereafter, Adrian sent a fascinating and chilling e-mail with his account of how the Tsunami on 26 December had affected him and his wife Kyoko. Although Adrian says he's not a man of faith, I asked him whether he had any other explanation for their survival, as they had stood on the bed in their bungalow while the tsunami relentlessly barreled forward. They escaped out a rear window of the bungalow as it was swept away! After spending a few days helping other victims, they flew back to Rangoon with their only remaining property - bathing suits. By some providence, their passports and tickets were salvaged from the property's office safe.
I took off on 27 December for Rangoon, this time using Singapore Airline's new non-stop flight New York>Singapore, cutting 10 hours off the total flight time. Singapore Air does a super job with their 18-hour flight: two big meals, at the beginning and end of the flight, then leaving us alone for the intervening 15 hours, but having available a lounge at the back of the plane for non- stop grazing on sandwiches, soups, noodles, and beverages. Also, with much enlarged seats, 50 movies, and 100 music channels, it was a totally delightful flight.
Had a bit of a fever upon arrival in Rangoon, came to realize a recurrent pattern: the fever has been coming to me every year when I arrive in Burma. Ex-pats living in Rangoon told me a fever is common to new arrivals, possibly due to the incredibly foul atmosphere resulting from zero environmental regulation in Rangoon.
The fever and travel fatigue abated after seventeen hours asleep my first day. My hostess at the May Fair Inn, Dr. May, took good care of me. With some continuing fever, however, went to bed long before New Year celebrations at midnight, as my sore throat produced an insufferable cough. Vermicelli and chicken soup for my New Year's feast was just right.
Made contact with my boon companion at the May Fair Inn for the past several years, retired Welshman John Hughes, teaching here in Burma. After all, was happy to have come back to Rangoon. So good for me that nothing changes here. The weather, as always in the winter, was beautiful, 80 ^o F, dry.
Crisis on arrival: when I attempted to boot up my laptop, it was dead in the water. Happily, when I took it for checking to the local computer service place, learned that the hard drive was intact; the problem was apparently with the video card. They kindly offered to remove the hard drive from my laptop and copy the essential files onto a CD. Then, at cyber cafe, found I had 115 e-mails, of which 83 were spam.
Life in Rangoon is so calm -- my blood pressure was down already after a few days. Then, on Sunday, it was so good at the Cathedral to see all my old friends.
On my first Monday, I learned that classes at the Holy Cross Theological College would begin on Wednesday. I helped Dr. May with her two new computers from Linn, happy to have nothing to do. The May Fair family is even kinder than in the past. Both the older son's and the daughter's studies are finished.
Right after New Year's, which I spent abed with fever, came Burma's Independence Day holiday, observing the country's separation from England. In the afternoon, John Hughes and I went to the 50th Street Café (a delightful oasis for Australian beef) for lunch.
I was impatient for the pleasure of classes beginning.
At my first day of classes - on Thursdays - there were 31 senior and junior students, with all of whom I had worked the prior year. It was such a pleasure to be with them. I?ll be teaching 16 first-year students on Mondays and 17 second-year students on Tuesdays - each class three hours long, then chapel, then lunch with the faculty.
Finally, in the first week of the New Year, I was able to move data from my computer, which is sick, to a laptop leant to me by Dr. May, so I'll be able to take photos here. Happy with how well and peacefully it's going this year. It was a challenge to find a way to keep the students engaged during three hours non-stop each week.
Then the annual ritual of getting 41 T-shirts for all the workers at the noodle shop where I eat - cheap for me, but too expensive for them.
Many friends were concerned about the Tsunami: hardly any effect in Burma apart from ~100 squatters and fishermen in the delta to our south.
What a surprise! After church I checked the internet, came to Pyae Pyae for lunch. The owner was having a first birthday party for the youngest of his three sons. I was invited - what a feast! It was a special time for me.
Mass at the Cathedral the following Sunday morning went very well. On the Karin New Year holiday, no e-mail! The Karin are the most Christian of all Burmese. I took all the waiters at Pyae Pyae to celebrate the Karin New Year after they finished work. We had much fun, went home early because they have to start work early in the morning.
After teaching the second-year students one morning (it went very well), spent all afternoon seeking a visa extension - Burmese Tourism, then Immigration, then Ministry of Foreign Affairs, then US Information Service, then US Embassy - got a letter from the counsel to assist me in getting my visa. I was finally able to finish the process the day after. After five more offices, victory! Had my visa for Burma extended one month till the end of the semester on 23 February, then 6 days in Pattaya/Bangkok w/Liz & Tony, then Boston 1 March
It was interesting to learn that that California had 15 feet of snow the second week of the New Year, 5 feet the next.
One day I had the students write what Psalm 22:1-19 meant to them. They showed great insight and spiritual wisdom. Would that I had been able to keep their essays.
E-mail in Burma continued lugubrious, but I loved getting messages from everyone back home. When I show pictures of Santosh & Pramila to my students, they say he looks like a lively monkey and she, like a Burmese lady.
So happy with how it's working with the students. They treat me as their pastor.
A group of Germans came to May Fair; they were nice, but they smoked at the breakfast table: Boo! Funny that I never realized when a smoker till a decade ago how unappealing the action is to non-smokers.
At the cyber cafe, the internet was going so slowly! More than an hour to receive and send three messages. But things continued well at May Fair and Pyae Pyae - feeling at home and at ease. Everyone in Myanmar has the same beautiful black shiny hair as Pramila. The ladies are very shy, and do not talk with strangers. The guys at Pyae are so kind with me.
At the Cathedral the vicar told me his assistant will be away for two month. So I shall be his Deacon the rest of my time here.
I finally learned why it is taking so long for postcards to arrive - they are sent from Burma only once each week! So we just have to be patient.
One Sunday afternoon, Christians from all over Burma (12 denominations) came to the Cathedral of the Holy Trinity for a service of Christian unity. The students from our seminary were the choir.
One day two Polish men came to May Fair - I planned their itinerary upcountry for them and fixed a problem they were having with their new Canon electronic camera (just like mine). It is fun to help the newcomers. After eight visits to Burma, I am like a tour guide.
It was a great day - the fourth-year students were at a seminar, thus no classes. In the evening the Poles invited me to spend their last night with them. Lent them one of my batteries for their trip to Bagan and Inle Lake, as their battery charger malfunctioned. Good to have received electronic news from Jessica- all is going well with the kids.
On Eid, a Muslim holy day, there was s a holiday in Burma, again no e-mail. The day before Eid, the driver from New Park in Bagan came to Pyae to give me the greetings from Nu Nu and the workers. He reported that things continue to go poorly for Maung Maung for whom I had bought a donkey. It' had become tedious to have nobody with whom I could speak English in Yangon, even though the kids at Pyae continued to be so friendly and charming.
After three weeks with no Western newsmagazines, I finally got current TIME anNewsweek issues, and looked at Fox News on the internet. I was surprised to see how much snow and cold New England is getting! Learned that Pramila and Santosh are enjoying their first snowy winter. Santosh apparently likes to play with crafts materials, but doesn't follow the rules - no surprise!
It was arranged that all the kids from Pyae would go with me to their 42nd Street Pub in mid-January, as we had not been able to celebrate the New Year's Eve together, due to my arrival ills. 25 kids from Pyae went with me to the pub; it was a great success - we all had such fun.
It was a great pleasure to worship at the Cathedral. Met a Chinese visitor, 90 years old, who had fought in Burma with the allies 60 years ago! Fr. Oak invited to the annual meeting of the Cathedral Chapter.
The people in Burma treat all holy places with great respect. It was such a contrast there with Boston, where a neighbor in the co-op wrote me that the door of their house is blocked by snow, unable to get out. I'm lucky to be in Rangoon.
Though a few of the young people are wearing Western clothes, most still dress in their traditional outfits.
Had very good classes with the students: after we reviewed a Biblical parable, I had them each write original parables - they produced fantastic results.
On the feast of the conversion of Saint Paul, we had the last of several gatherings throughout greater Rangoon for Christian unity in Burma, this one at the Roman Catholic Cathedral of the Virgin Mary. Our students from Holy Cross Theological College were the choir.
Sitting in Rangoon with a cool lemonade gin to escape the 95F midday heat, I thought of the people in Boston with their horrible winter. But for my grandchildren, could see myself there year 'round.
Every man in Burma becomes a monk for three months/years/decades. All people there are quietly faithful.
We had a great tragedy affecting both the Seminary and the Cathedral: the wife of Father Doe (the Principal of the Seminary) was in an automobile accident - the driver (son of a parishioner at the Cathedral) was killed; all three of the others gravely wounded.
The Karin State in the north is the most Christian state of anywhere in Burma. Many of the seminary students are Karin.
I spent one afternoon photographing Burmese people in the street. Having been there so often, I find it easy to forget how different life there is from back in Boston.
The Poles whom I had helped to plan their trip up-country came back from Bagan and Inle Lake, overwhelmed with their trip. Transferred all the photos the Poles had taken to CD's for them. They've taken to calling me Uncle David, as without the camera battery I lent them, they would not have been able to take their photos in Bagan and at Inle Lake.
Everyone in Burma who sees Pramila's photo thinks she is Burmese. In fact, some of the people in eastern Nepal share roots with some of the groups in Burma. All the boys in Rangoon play soccer in the street, bare feet, with their longyis tucked up over their knees.
One morning I spent 1½ hours getting three e-mails! Often the routers are overwhelmed by the amount of electronic traffic, thus making it more fruitful to access the net in the evening, after commercial interests have shut down. All the same, at times it seems that all of Burma is served by only two modems!
It is a delight to relax on Saturdays, when all is sort of quiet. At lunch one day I met Vin Ku Hau an 85-year-old man, who was chief of resistance for the Chins, then delegate for Aun Gan at the UN, at Boston, at Prague, very interesting. He was received at Buckingham Palace in 1995. I had seen this gentleman and others over the years at Pyae, but they had not spoken with me before this year, when they came to realize I could be trusted to share their confidences about the political situation in Burma.
There were several opportunities for me to serve as Deacon of the Eucharist at the Cathedral. It's such a joy worshipping with the Burmese people. After one Sunday Eucharist, the Vicar invited me to join the clergy at the annual meeting of the Cathedral Chapter, followed by a traditional luncheon.
Father Doe telephoned from HCTC one Sunday, noting that because of problems with the government, the seminary had to move final exams and Commencement forward two weeks. It appears that the Roman Catholic seminary is having similar difficulties.
The Cathedral has started a pre-school for boys and girls of Santosh's age. Because I've spent so much time here, the people no longer treat me as "falang" (foreigner), but as if I live here.
I had my last class of the year with the students. The four whiteboards I ordered for the seminary arrived during our last week. The students had been laboring with black-boards so worn that they were down to bare wood. The new boards are neat, on wheels, two-sided, larger than the old worn-out blackboards. It will help a lot in the classrooms. Although I was eager to
get home to my family, shall miss the seminary.
It takes thousands of tea leaves, once dried, to make one pound of tea. Each leaf must be picked by hand - so much work!
I noted to Pramila that, if she lived in rural Kachin State, it would be her job to fetch water from the river, as a young lady on a postcard I sent her is doing - hard work! Had final exam with all of the students, who did much better on the exams - both oral from memory and written - than I could have expected. They all passed very well. I was so proud of them. At the end, I gave an "A" to each of the students, even though I thought I had given a sufficiently stringent examination. The students begged me to return to the seminary the next year for the whole year. One of my students wrote in his final exam, about Psalm 127: "If the lord is not watch our city, we can face many dangerous." It reminded me of Santosh saying often, "It's very dangerous!"
Was asked to preach another Sunday at the Cathedral. I treated three voyages: Noah's, Saint Paul's, and the blind man at Jericho, and the beginning of our \voyage the following Wednesday - Ash Wednesday. Although the people said they \understood my English, Fr. Oak repeated it in Burmese when I was done, as was \his custom.
Then we had a memorial service for an old lady who had died. Because her relatives were Buddhist, we had a biryani feast afterwards - delicious.
Having finally run out of different postcards for Pramila and Santosh's daily notes, began to buy small original paintings to use as postcards. Noted to them that, if they compared their cards, they would see that they are slightly different, as they are painted by hand.
I learned from Fox News that the Patriots won the football championship again. Immediately e-mailed people back in Boston asking them whether the prior win's mayhem had been repeated. Alex wrote me that the victory resulted in a huge police presence, thus no problem! One of the erstwhile celebrants was heard to say that the police weren?t at all sporting!
Alex wrote that Santosh had started in pre-school at the YMCA daily, all day; he appears to be delighted with the schooling, with about 15 peers. Also, the diversified program of teaching, games, studies, physical exercise, and reading appears truly to be challenging him.
Once exams were done and corrected, I had my first day of vacation - it was such a delight! Given that the government shut us three weeks early, Commencement also was advanced. All the same, continued with my plan to arrive in Pattaya for a week before returning to Boston.
I observed Ash Wednesday, at Saint Barnabas's Church, where several parishes were gathered for a service.
It has been hard to find orange or green clothing for Pramila and Santosh in the market - shall keep trying. I finally sent 49 postcards for people in general, which finishes this task.
In Burma, Buddhists apply gold leaf to the Buddha, as a sign of their devotion.
The staff at Pyae Pyae gave me a beautiful jewel sculptured picture of two peacocks. In the countryside of Burma, parents cannot afford to send their children to school - Pramila and Santosh would be working on the farm with their parents. Finally I had an evening visit with Mrs. Ma and her family at her customary street corner wok. It's reassuring that some things don't change.
Finally in mid-February had one of the most wonderful days of this trip: served as Deacon at the Cathedral in the morning, then - in the afternoon - Commencement at the Seminary - three Bishops, twenty Priests, and two Deacons, as well as relatives and friends of the graduates from all over Burma. The dean had me process & be seated with the faculty - what an honor.
My students did so well! I was invited me to the home of one of the graduates to celebrate his commencement with twenty of his relatives, some from as far away as England and Singapore.
Back at Pyae Pyae, I wrote a thank-you to the thirty Pyae people who had contributed to a lovely gift for me - a peacock fashioned out of semi-precious stones. I had the note translated into Burmese, made a copy for each worker. For most, the first "Thank You" they received, as a "thank you"" is rare in Burma and a key to my success there. At a street vendor's, was able to find reading glasses with my required magnification - 25 cents each.
Then, the owner of Pyae gave me an orange Shan outfit - jacket and pants (not longyi) like the Shan wear - everyone was so nice to me! Once having finished with final exams and graduation, up to Bangkok for a week of vacation before getting home.
Dr. May gave me so many gifts for the family. It has been a noisy week as the Chinese celebrated their lunar New Year. Santosh won't have to wear a longyi, the skirt all men in Burma wear: Dr. May got him an outfit from the Shan region, where all men wear trousers at festive events.
Had a delightful luncheon with Bertie Duckworth, who has been working with the acolytes at the Cathedral for over 40 years, was interred by the Japanese during WW II. With his decades of civil service with the governments from right after the War, and with his wife Nellie's decades of work at the Israeli Embassy, there were so many fascinating tales! The next day, Dr. May,
U Zaw Win, and their son took me to a very elegant Indian restaurant for a buffet luncheon - so good!
I reported to Santosh that little boys like him help their parents at sidewalk tea shops in Rangoon, preparing the tea and serving the guests. I was so busy with fare-well parties as I prepared to leave.
On my last Sunday, after my sermon strongly condemning heterodoxy [specifically in the USA] was very well received by the people, they gave me a very nice lunch at the Cathedral. The dish was typical Burmese - noodles, rice, potato, vegetables, spices - all mixed by hand in your bowl by the lady serving you. What a finale, and what a happy end to my efforts there this year.
This trip lasted just long enough - never bored, nor having anything more to do. On one of my last nights, fifteen of the waiters took me for a fare-well party at their pub at 42nd Street, much fun; I wore the Shan outfit given me by the owner of Pyae.
Learned that the weather in Bangkok is hotter than ever, 100 ^o F!, but there is a sea breeze all day. On my last day, I had breakfast with U Zaw Win. My last night, I gave red, pink and yellow roses to the cashier ladies at Pyae. The waiters from Pyae decided to come to May Fair Inn at 7:00 my last morning to wish me farewell. The driver from May Fair brought me to the airport.
It was good to get back to Pattaya. My friend Liz had left a beautiful bouquet of flowers in my room. I?m sure Santosh would be glad to watch the kick-boxing unique to Thailand - they use both their hands and their feet, are very agile. It was much more hot & humid here than in Rangoon, not so comfortable.
Characteristically, I stuffed myself at the Apex Buffet both my first night at supper and first morning at breakfast. It's unconscionable that they lay out such sumptuous feasts every day - seafood, beef, chicken, pork, panoply of vegetables and salads, soups galore, all with the ambiance of a shore breeze.
Most of the tourists at Pattaya are Germans, with their Thai "friends," young Thai ladies of less than 16 years - disgusting.
Then I had a characteristically wonderful dinner with Liz & Tony at their home, breakfast in the morning with John Hughes, the Welshman I know from May Fair.
When I was leaving for Liz and Tony's with their driver, he remembered me from two years before, with my crutches.
It was so good to talk with Mum, with Pramila, Jessica, and Alex one evening - their morning, just five days before I?d be back in Boston. The nearer my return becomes, the harder it is to wait.
One night was at the Beer Garden at the top of Soi 11, where I participated in a whole pig barbeque. Then I had a lovely dinner on the seaside with Liz and Tony as the sun sank into the ocean, the following day lunch with Liz at a delicious Italian restaurant.
Had a six-hour wait at the airport at Bangkok before check-in.
The non-stop Singapore-New York went very well, though I was stiff with fatigue. The flight was only ½ full, with superb service.
Finally home on 2 March, took my Laptop to MIT for service, expecting a horrendous problem. It turned out that it was a very simple problem of the video card not being properly attached; once done, all well.
I was happy to receive a note from dear Fr. Huntress following his visit to England. Few are so constant in their faith-full correspondence.
Then, at the end of May, I had a wonderful weekend at Brown for my 45th Reunion. Because reunion weekend was made one day shorter this year than formerly, there's too much to do in too little time.
Once back in Boston after Brown, Pramila and Alex brought me to the airport for a trip to Los Angeles, that I might be with my Rangoon Guest-house owners' son Linn for his graduation from junior college, after four years of diligent effort.
My first day in Los Angeles, went with Linn to visit my Rangoon friends Bertie and Nellie Duckworth at their daughter's there. After lunch, had coffee with my Algerian friend Mohammed Bouhmad, who had moved from my Co-op to Los Angeles. In the evening, Linn came to take me to a Chinese buffet. We drove well over an hour to get to the restaurant, apparently normal in California, where everyone seems to spend half their days in their cars. The buffet was so good and so copious - I stuffed myself!
The next day, it was a great pleasure to be with Linn at his graduation, and to meet all the people with whom I had interfaced when we were trying to get him to the college five years before. This will go down as one of my most memorable birthdays, occurring the day after the commencement.
Again back to Boston, got a card from my Entrevaux hostess Nicole Baudino, telling me she had moved house, still at Entrevaux. I fantasize about returning to Entrevaux and to Malta, my last two summers' destinations of such happy memory. However, neither can approach the increased time I had with the grandchildren during the summer - punctuated with Pramila's ballet and soccer camps, the family's week at an Episcopal camp in New Hampshire, and frequent overnights for Santosh here in Boston.
As the rector of Saint Chrysostom's had retired this summer after a full ministry, and as it was difficult for the parish to find supply priests, had several opportunities to officiate at a Deacon's Eucharist, the Sacrament previously consecrated by a Priest.
During the school year, it has been neat to fetch Pramila a few days a week as she leaves school, having a chance to walk and talk with her (when does she get a chance to talk at home with Santosh?) and have some quality time together.
Received a happy greeting from one of my headwaiters from three years before at Pyae, who has moved to Bangkok. Hope to connect with him when I'm back at Pattaya in February.
Once the school year began, Pramila returned to the Boston Ballet School, and Santosh finally was allowed to start with the introductory movement and rhythm class there. As had Pramila last year, Santosh began his ballet experience with Mrs. Loring, an incredibly gifted teacher who had a magic talent for getting the neophyte dancers to perform.
Noting that I was forever shooting photos of the children, Mrs. Loring asked if I'd be willing do shoot some photos for the School to use. Are you kidding!
This gave me opportunity two weeks to sit silently in Santosh's class (adults normally barred), and shoot away as he and his twelve ballerina colleagues performed. Apparently, the School will find some photos of the four hundred to use for their publicity.
It has been fruitful to keep involvement with MIT's Retirees' Association advisory committee, Community Giving leadership, and the Support Staff working group. All of these activities give me a chance to keep in touch with treasured colleagues.
The co-op where I've been living for a quarter century had determined that we're going to be needing massive renovations. We're in process of getting plans, ideas, quotations, and so on from the professionals. Whether we'll be able to do modest repairs and renovations, or a significant rebuilding of the upper three stories, or a complete demolition and rebuilding from scratch remains to be seen. If it's the former, with a few months? inconvenience, I'll continue with my original plan of remaining at the Co-op for the rest of my days; if the latter, necessitating moving out for over a year, I'll not move twice.
Rather, I shall buy a condominium in Wollaston, nearer my family. Since I'm down there five days a week now, here will be no loss for me to leave Boston. Also, properties in Wollaston are sufficiently less expensive than those in Boston for me to be able to afford a neat ocean-facing place with balcony!
I had thought to buy a property outright, but have learned that there are great tax advantages to taking a mortgage. One datum struck me: if I take a 15-year mortgage, at the end of the fifteen years my home will cost me less than my already very reasonable co-op.
I just returned from a festive luncheon with Mum and brother Bill at a favorite restaurant. Again this year, the Rector at Saint Chrysostom's in Wollaston has asked me to be Deacon of the Mass at the Christmass Eve Eucharist. Then, on Christmass day, given that I'll have to be at the airport at 5:00 the morning after Christmass, shall not be able to accept Claudine's kind invitation to join the family for Christmass dinner with her. Too early to bed, as I look forward to Thai Air's non-stop JFK-Bangkok, which cuts 10 hours off my total flight time.
Now that the note is near done, would you believe that I had hoped to make it half as long as previous years?! I hope the meanderings show you how rich and full my life in retirement (!) has become.

Abundant Thanksgiving,
Christmass Greetings,
and a
Blessed New Year 2006!