stone cold grimmery
why cold stone creamery sucks

 

Many people ask, "Isn't it great that you have a Cold Stone Creamery across the street?"

No, it's not. Even if you don't mind consuming chain-store ice cream in the middle of a city with the world's best independent ice cream makers, you have to acknowledge that it tastes like grocery store crap. That's because it is! Of course, Cold Stone Creamery "uses only the finest ingredients." Let's take a look at the ingredients that make Cold Stone's ice cream base so special.

Cream
Milk
Sugar
  The normal ice cream ingredients.
Condensed Skim Milk   A source of non-fat milk solids (aka "serum solids") used to maintain an ice cream-like texture despite high "overrun." Low-quality ice cream manufacturers introduce air into the ice cream to increase its volume. Frozen ice cream with 100% overrun (the maximum legal amount) has twice the volume of the original ingredients. Cold Stone does not declare its overrun, but you can take a guess since this one is high on the ingredients list.
Corn Syrup   A low-cost sweetener to reduce the need for sugar. Probably also used to depress the freezing point for "creamier" ice cream.
Guar Gum
Carageenan
  Freeze/thaw stabilizers used to retard the growth of ice crystals in shipping, during which the ice cream ("freshly made," according to the signs) is subjected to changes in temperature. Guar gum, a vegetable derivative, is non-digestible. Carageenan, an extract of red seaweed, also acts as a tasteless thickener.
Cellulose Gum   A non-digestible thickener/stabilizer.
Mono- and Di-glycerides
Polysorbate 80
  Emulsifiers. In real ice cream, the emulsion is held together by the lecithin and protein from eggs. Since Cold Stone does not use eggs, they have to add these chemicals. Glycerides are produced from low-cost high-fat hydrogenated oils. Polysorbate 80 is derived from sorbitol and is also used as a chewing gum plasticizer.
Annatto Extract   Yellow colorant. Is ice cream supposed to be yellow?

If that doesn't make you uncomfortable, watch a Cold Stone employee when someone puts money in the tip jar. They are apparently required to smile, acknowledge the tip, and sing a song about being happy every time this happens. I've seen this with my own eyes, and is it ever painful. According to the Cedar Falls Courier:

If customers leave a tip, employees sing a song. The songs are based on a public-domain title, such as the "I Don't Know But I've Been Told" military march chant to "Twinkle, Twinkle Little Star." The words are changed to include references to ice cream and Cold Stone.
Wearing pieces of "flair" must not be humiliating enough!


e-mail: johnston at mit dot edu