Haleakala is a dormant volcano which forms the eastern part of the island of Maui. Haleakala National Park includes the crater area near the summit and extends down the eastern side of the mountain to the seashore. In all it encompasses everything from the rocky seashore of east Maui up the slopes through rain forest and bogs, into subalpine shrubland, into the desert area of the crater floor, and finally to the alpine rocky peak of the 10,023 foot summit. In the subalpine shrubland area of the park lives the state bird of Hawaii, the endangered Nene. The nene is believed to have descended from the Canadian Goose. The nene can only be found in Haleakala National Park and in some parts of the Big Island of Hawaii. Also found in the park is the strikingly beautiful silversword (ahinahina). The crater area of Haleakala is the only place in the world where you can see the silversword. This amazing plant shoots up through the dry volcanic sand in a clump of long thin silvery "leaves". These leaves contain water, much the same way that a cactus stores water. The silversword reaches maturity after about 25 years at which time it flowers once and dies. The daisy like flowers are arranged in an elongated clump along a single vertical stalk. The flowers bloom during the summer months between June and August.
In the dark predawn hours of Christmas Day, I drove the many switchbacks of the Haleakala Highway en route to the summit. Since the temperature drops about 3 Farenheit degrees for every 1000 feet of elevation gained, the summit temperature was probably hovering near freezing as I stepped out of the car at the summit. I walked up the set of steps leading to the true summit and the warming hut, and I noticed ice on the sidewalk. From the glass enclosed warming hut I watched as daylight dawned on the peak of Haleakala and the island of Maui. Standing at what seemed like the top of the world, looking down on the clouds and the cinder cones of the crater, as the rising sun painted the rocks and the sand of the mountain bright shades of red and orange, I understood why the Hawaiians named this mountain Haleakala, the "House of the Sun".
I drove down to the Halemauu Trailhead located at 8000 feet elevation. The trail starts in subalpine shrubland, dotted with bright yellow wildflowers. Three times, I flushed solitary pheasants from the bushes and each time it scared the heck out of me. After about a mile, I reached the crater ridge and took in an amazing view. About 2000 feet below, and almost straight down as the ridge is very steep, and extending for miles is the valley floor. Directly below is a dry grassland which is a favorite area for the nene. In the distance there are numerous cinder cones, the largest one almost 1000 feet high, painted in many shades of red and brown. I start on my way down the switchbacked trail, descending gradually to the valley floor. The trail is very well maintained, and the walking is fairly easy. After about two miles, I reach the valley floor and enter the grassland. I follow the trail for about a mile, climbing onto a plateau formed from volcanic rock, until I reach the Holua campsite. I encountered two pairs of nene, who were very friendly and curious. I was able to approach them to about 6 feet, and when I walked away and sat down for a rest, they came over to me, making their unusual call which sounds more like a moo of a cow, rather than the honk of a goose. I continued on the trail to the silversword loop, where there are an amazing number of silverswords from seedlings to larger adults to plants that have already flowered and are dying. This volcanic landscape which looks entirely barren from afar is actually full of life!
I retraced my steps back up the switchbacks of the Halemauu Trail to the trailhead parking lot and an end to an exhilarating, although exhausting day of hiking. In all the distance covered was about 10 miles.
To find out more about Haleakala National Park, follow the link below:
| GORP Haleakala Page |
