Thursday, 21st June 2001
The early hours of the morning were spent dashing off "urgent" e-mails to project managers, sponsors and labmates, in a frantic bid to get last-minute work done before taking off. After never-ending trifles ("Have I taken my passport?", "What about my I-20s?", etc), tracks were made to South Station, were the lady at the counter (grey)hounded me about my visa being valid only until the end of June. Fierce negotiations commenced, whence I tried to convince her that it was exactly for this reason that I was crossing the border. Having settled the matter, I suddenly realised how hungry I was (having skipped breakfast), but decided against lugging my bags back to the main terminal to feed. The bus left promptly at 10:00 am, and we were on our way.
A rather uneventful seven and a half hours elapsed, while we plodded our way through to the Canadian border. Snatches of sleep were interspersed with eyeballing the beautiful scenery, especially in New Hampshire and Vermont. Wonderful mountainous landscapes thick with green trees and the occasional flowers did a good job of convincing me that New England was definitely the place to be. We stopped at a few quaint places (White River Junction, Waterbury, Burlington, St Albans, and the like) to disgorge and take in passengers, and finally arrived at Canada's customs check-point. No trouble here at all, as they asked us if we had any alcohol/cigarettes/bombs (kidding on the last score, of course). A simple "no" got us back on the bus, without any bags being opened. And in no time, we were cruising along in bumper-to-bumper traffic, the few skyscrapers of downtown Montreal looming in the distance. A few tunnels and bridges later, we got off at Centrale Station.
The issue of obtaining Canadian money raised itself. Conflicting reports about the acceptance of US $$$ coaxed me into joining a small queue at the money changers, behind a Tamil family that was busily arguing about the exchange rate on display. Soon, armed with the cash, and after bumping about a little (thanks to a Metro sign that led nowhere), an exit (Sortie?) was located. Through the swinging doors, and I was standing on Rue Berri. Crossing a few legs of the intersection brought me to the Berri-UQAM subway stop, and for the first time, I realised that I had forgotten to bring along my Anglais-Francais-and-vice-versa dictionary. Every single subway sign was in French! Pushing a $20 bill through to the ticket guy, noises and gestures were made to indicate that I was interested in getting one token. A piece of cardboard was pushed to me, and I had to hand it back to him to obtain access to the subway. Smooth sailing after that, as the train made its way to Peel Station. Some guesswork (and a bit of luggage-lugging) got me (finally!) to my hotel.
Bags were dumped in the room, and armed with my camera, and a map that the concierge handed over, I decided to reconnoiter a little, in preparation for the trip to the US consulate early the next morning. Walking along Rue Guy, I soon came to Boulevard St Catherine, the "main" street in Montreal... indeed, it was bustling with activity, people, shops, etc. Couldn't help noticing the profusion of McDonalds and Burger Kings, sticking out like sore thumbs amongst cafes and bistros. Tiring of the shops quickly, I turned off at random and arrived at Boulevard Rene Levesque. It struck a chord immediately, as the US consulate is located on this road. Snapped some pictures of the downtown in failing light, and of the Cathedrale Marie-Reine-du-Monde. Imposing structures belonging to big banks and other establishments towered up along Rene Levesque. But most importantly, I located the US consulate. It was reassuring to note that it could be reached by a 20-25 minute walk from my hotel, in case the subway did not operate early enough.
Retracing my steps along a slightly different route, I crashed in anticipation of a rather dreary early-morning vigil at the Consulate.
Friday, 22nd June 2001
Up and away by 6:20 am! Stepped out into pouring rain, and got drenched as I ran to the subway stop at Guy-Concordia. Having previously ascertained that the trains started worming around in their underground maze as early as 5:30 am, a 3-day tourist pass was procured. Got off at McGill and arrived at the Consulate at about 6:50, to find two people ahead of me... felt good about that, as they had gotten there at 5:00 and 6:00 am respectively. Light talk about where each was from, what the chances were of getting the visa at all, and would we get it the same day? More anxiety, as it was announced that Monday was a Canadian holiday, and that the Consulate would be closed. Anyway, MIT's I-20 (and a shocking $120 US) changed hands a few times (the $$$ vanished, of course), and I was assured a visa that afternoon. A quick trip back to my room, and I was now accoutred with camera and tripod (the latter contraption being a recent gift from my roomies).
Subwayed my way to Champ-de-Mar, and gazed at the mighty City Hall in Old Montreal. More clicking, with fountains and other monuments in the fray. Attempted to sneak into the photo by setting the timer on my tripodded camera, but never heard the click... hoped I'd got enough face into the frame before the shutter tripped... Walked along Rue Notre-Dame, through Place Jacques-Cartier, onto Rue De La Commune. The whole of Old Montreal sports a quaint historical look, with a profusion of architecturally beautiful structures and facades. Passed by the Bonsecours Market, and the Notre-Dame-de-Bon-Secours Chapel. Found myself in the Old Port region, and espied the St Laurence river nearby. Walking towards it, I reached the waterfront. It soon got very windy, and holding the camera steady was a job in itself. The view across the river presented an island that seemed to contain an entire city - green parkland, industrial structures, bridges, and...the Biosphere. The geodesic dome was designed by architect Buckminster Fuller, and houses exhibition halls relating to environmental hydrology (The photo section contains a zoomed-in shot of the Biosphere taken from the Esplanade at the Old Port. First real use of my recently acquired 75-300 mm zoom lens!).
Killed about an hour walking a little aimlessly along the Esplanade, but resolved to come back at night, hoping to mimic some of the great night shots of colourfully lit buildings I'd seen in brochures. Passed by the Jacques-Cartier Pavillion and the Montreal Science Center (on King Edward Pier). Cut through Rue Saint-Suplice, heading for the Metro stop at Place d'Armes. At Place d'Armes was the majestic facade of the Notre-Dame Basilica and the Bank of Montreal Museum. Clicked a few more, and hurried on through Rue Saint-Urban to jump on a train back to McGill. A half-hour wait in a stationary queue, and I pocketed the precious visa. Mission accomplished! Hurrah! Walked along Rue Saint-Catherine in search of any Indian restaurants, and went a long way before a crazy mob burst out from a restaurant about five meters ahead. One of the mobsters was intent on poking what looked like a pretty large knife into anyone who got close enough. Five meters was far too close for me, and I took advantage of a break in traffic to skip to the other side, quickly entered some random shop, and ordered ice cream and donuts for lunch. Walked quickly to my hotel, praying that the way was clear of knife-wielding weirdos, and feasted on the bread, butter and juice that I had bought the previous day.
A short rest, while I waited for the sky to turn dark. Impatiently skipped channels on the idiot box conveniently provided. Nothing very interesting ever seems to get aired on American channels. The same bits of "news" appeared repeatedly in successive news broadcasts, and the most "interesting" item was a CNN feature about the comedians who had a field day during (and much after) the recent presidential elections. Soon, I opted to sleep rather than soak up a lot of junk. The sun sets late in the northern hemisphere during this part of the year, and it wasn't until 9:00 pm before the first hints of darkness galvanized me into action. Leaving the hotel at 9:30 pm, I took the subway to Old Montreal once again. And stunning it was! The buildings were all lit up in a myriad of colours. Walked along Avenue Viger (a little too deserted for my liking), and set about snapping the City Hall and the Vieux palais de justice. Decided to make this a quick foray, and dashed across to Place Vauquelin. The fountain I had visited earlier was ablaze in a brilliant flash of yellow, and the front of City Hall was even more colourful. Scooted over to get a shot of the Bonsecours Market. Wanted to walk around a water body to snap the Market and its reflection, but abandoned the idea in view of the dark and deserted surroundings. Surprisingly, and in sharp contrast to the empty streets, a lot of people were milling around on the Jacques-Cartier Pavillion a short distance away. Made a beeline for the subway stop at Champ-de-Mar, and soon sank thankfully into bed.
Saturday, 23rd June 2001
My last full day in Montreal, and so much to see! Obviously, not all that I wanted to see could be covered. But there were three that I would not have missed for anything. McGill university, Mont Royale (the mini mountain that gives the city its name) and the Botanical Garden (Le Jardin Botanique de Montreal). After pushing the three around on my daily "schedule", I decided to start with the school. Took the subway to McGill, and walked to the gates of this old university. It felt good to walk around an actual campus, after the dreary jumble of clashing architecture that is called "MIT". It was too early in the morning for any signs of academic pursuits, and I just walked about the various department buildings and the Redpath Museum. Took a few pictures.
A short walk up a few steep roads brought me to Rue Des Pins, where I began a hike to the observation deck on Mont Royale. I soon reached a flight of about seventy to eighty steep steps. Early morning joggers and tourists were teeming around, and one nut was even timing himself while he ran up and down the steps. Bah! How hard can it be? I soon found out, and it was quite an effort lugging a backpack, camera and tripod up those steps. The platform had a large railing looking onto downtown Montreal, and also a Chateau of sorts. Took a few more pictures, and used my zoom lens to observe details in the view in front of me. The path led further up the mountain, but I decided that I'd had enough climbing for the day. Got back down the trail, with a lot more respect for the stamina displayed by the joggers (the earlier one was STILL running up and down!). A short walk to McGill, followed by the subway to Pie-IX. Destination: Le Jardin Botanique.
I have always liked large expanses of greenery, and the Botanical Garden was seventy five hectares of pure heaven! One look at the map, and I began to wonder if I could indeed cover the whole place. There was a mini train that took one quickly around the garden, but I decided to walk. The first stop was the rose garden. A stone lion guarded its arched entrance. Stepped in, and what a stunning array! Thousands of the most beautiful roses of all varieties and colours! Set among landscaped gardens and fountains! The sweet scent hung thickly in the air as I meandered along, clicking left and right. The tripod came in handy, and I ensured that I appeared in a few of the snaps myself. Turning around, I saw the inclined tower of the Olympic Stadium rising above a red sea of roses. Spent nearly an hour here, before realizing that this was just my first stop...
An indoor Japanese garden displayed numerous samples of the Bonsai and Zen styles, the latter being formed entirely of rocks. Passing outdoors, there were well-landscaped avenues leading to a large pond complete with waterfalls and a waterwheel made of bamboo. Large golden fish swam lazily in the clear waters, as gulls flew in to peck for food on the banks. I walked across wooden planks spanning the waters, and rested a while to drink in the beautiful scene. No pictures can ever convey the moods reflected in that garden. A slight drizzle had begun by now, posing a slight hindrance to walking outdoors. This was a good time to grab some food at a nearby stall. Waited for the drops to stop splattering on the garden umbrella over my head. A gull presently appeared, and waited patiently for us to throw some morsels of food its way. When none was forthcoming, it let out a series of loud yodels, accompanied by a lot of neck-craning and foot-stomping.
Having waited out the rain, I dissappointed the gull by quitting my post under the umbrella, and walked towards the arboretum. A few detours along the way took me past an assortment of small plants, mostly non-flowering, and canopied high above by towering trees. Though the ground was dense with vegetation, each species of plant had been meticulously classified and labelled. And every square inch had been landscaped to make the scenery more interesting than just a jumble of green. An undirected and unlabelled path took off from the main road, and I chanced a few steps along it. The way was overgrown with weeds, and the occassional gardening truck had left a fading reminder that a path indeed existed here. The jungle atmosphere was a little scary, but I pushed on, resolving every few steps to turn back at the next bend. Presently, the path broke tree cover, and I was relieved to see the main road again, several meters to my left. Plodding on through some tall grass, I arrived at the tree house. There was a small pond besides the house. A large family of ducks swam about, poking into the water ever so often. Tripod to the rescue again! More close-ups (of ducks this time) were clicked before hopping onto the road.
A sign told me that I was already in the Arboretum. I realised that I had been in the arboretum all along, as I had trudged along the winding paths under the trees. This was the other end of the Botanical Garden. The area around me now contained neatly planned tree plantations, with each tree labelled by an aluminium tag hanging from a lower branch. I walked through whole sections of pines, spruces, larches and maples before deviating into a flower garden. This section was apparently seasonal, as most of the plants were yet to display their glorious plumes (the pictures in the brochure were stunning). More trees (and still more trees), before the landscape thinned out into grassland. There were large ponds with high reeds and grasses. The scene was hypnotic, and I lay down on the grassy banks, staring into the blue sky, a row of tall pines framed on the horizon. Ducks swam about on the still waters. Birds chased each other, skimming inches above the water before taking off in astonishing acrobatic displays. It was hard to stay awake in such an environment.
I dragged myself to my feet (lest I should really fall asleep), and reached a section of dazzling lilies and other species that I forget the names of. The sheer range of colours and shapes was awe-inspiring. A lot of close-up photographs were taken, just to be able to gaze at those colours again. The path soon led to a section of the garden devoted to vegetation from around the world. It was classified into European, tundra, African, and the like, with detailed reproductions and descriptions of the regional vegetation. Even the rock and soil conditions were portrayed. A small waterfall had been set up, and a winding path took one to the very edge of the water. The path had been well hidden, to create a secluded area close to the falls. Crossing a bridge, I was attracted by the sound of more falling water. Rounding a bend, I arrived at the Chinese garden. There were small temples with the typical Chinese roofs, and soft music was playing from one of them. We could clamber up the rocks of the waterfall, and look out across the lake stretching out in front. I could stay here for ever!
When I finally managed to pull myself away, I realised that I had made a near full circle, and was back in the rose garden. I saw a few rosebeds that I had missed before, and was soon back were I had started. Looking at my watch, I realised that about four and a half hours had been spent roaming around this amazing landscape. Oh, and that's a cottontail rabbit loping across my path, too quick for me to adjust my camera! I made my way to the Insectarium, which housed a huge exhibit on the insect world. I quickly got out of the bug-house, and took a shuttle to the Olympic Stadium and Biodome.
The Stadium is characterised by the world's tallest inclined tower, standing at a vertical height of 270 meters. A two-minute cable car ride gets one to the top, for a great view of Montreal, the St Lawrence River and the surrounding mountains. A few photos were clicked from the top, but the rain had peppered the glass windows with numerous droplets that partially masked the view. The hike and long walks left me drained, and I decided to skip the Biodome. Well, some other time! A fair rain had resumed again, and the seat on the subway was a welcome relief. A long and satisfying day came to an end as I embraced my pillow and sank into a deep sleep.
Sunday, 24th June 2001
Quits! My bus for the return journey was scheduled to depart at 12:00 noon. I decided to make a short trip to Angrignon Park at the other end of the subway's green line. It took a while for the train to get there, but the park was great. More landscaped grassland with ponds and streams. I saw a crane fishing in a pond, but it was too suspicious of my camera, and always managed to stay just out of range. I had tired of setting up my tripod repeatedly, and had ditched it in my hotel room. Now, I wished I hadn't. Anyway, some rocks served as decent supports, and a few more pictures were clicked before my time ran out and I headed back to Guy-Concordia. A hasty checkout and half an hour later, I was back at Centrale Station, cooling my heels before boarding the Express bus back to Boston. Another long and rather uneventful ride, with MLV, Ramnad Krishnan and the like pouring into my ears. Tired out. Stretched out. But well worth the effort!
Back to Boston, and back to the grind...
