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San Diego's Wreck Alley
While on business in southern California for the last two weeks, I took
advantage of a day off last Sunday to do some awesome wreck diving in San
Diego. There's an area just off the coast of Mission Bay called Wreck Alley
(
http://www.scubadiving.com/US/sandiego/),
where several ships and
other structures have been purposely sunk over the years to provide habitat
for sea life. A year ago last July, the Canadian destroyer, HMCS Yukon, was
sunk after being cleaned and prep'd for diving
(http://www.hmcs-yukon.org).
The hull was "swiss-cheesed" with many large cutouts into most of the 6
decks to make it easier for divers to penetrate. The weather on the
morning of the dives was actually rainy, overcast, and dark (breaking a
streak of 159 days without rain!), making it a little difficult to see
inside the ship, which sits at a depth of about 105 feet at the sand.
However, the visibility was still a very good 25-30 feet outside, and the
water temperature was a balmy 55 F. (Most of the natives were using
drysuits.) We descended on the bow mooring line, with the forward gun
battery coming into view at about 65 feet. The ship is absolutely
HUGE...366 feet long (about twice the length of the Poling). It sits way
over on its port side, so everything is kind of sideways. (It was supposed
to be sunk upright by controlled demolition, but actually sank in a storm
the night before.) We descended along the starboard hull all the way to
the sand, and then traveled along the hull up to the bow. We passed by
several of the large cutouts, and the surge was so strong that you could
get sucked into them unexpectedly if you weren't careful. Once around the
bow, we swam along the deck, passing by the forward gun battery, until we
reached the superstructure, which is several stories high and juts out
sideways. I penetrated briefly through one of the large hatches in the
deck. Shortly thereafter, we started our ascent on the mooring line at the
midships. The wreck is so big, we never even made it to the stern half.
I'm looking forward to doing many more dives on this wreck in the future.
For divers that are thoroughly familiar with this ship, there are all sorts
of things to explore inside the ship, including paintings in one of the
rooms (supposedly the first underwater art gallery).
The second dive was on the nearby wreck of the Ruby E, a former Coast Guard
cutter sunk about a dozen years ago. The ship is covered with an array of
sea life, particularly the starboard hull, which is solidly carpeted with
pink, purple, red, and white anemones. (In contrast, the recently sunk
Yukon has almost no life growing on it yet.) The ship sits upright on the
sandy bottom, at a depth of almost 90 feet. It's about 165 feet long, so
we were able to make a complete circuit around it, with plenty of time to
penetrate and pass completely through a number of compartments. The sun
came out during this dive, making for excellent visibility inside and
outside, although the strong surge was still making it difficult to get
through the passageways.
If anybody would like more information on the boat charter company, costs,
or other dive sites in the San Diego area, please don't hesitate to contact
me.
- Robert Granetz
Rhode Island wrecks
Divers:
The elusive U-853
For months now, we have been planning to dive the U-853 German submarine in
the late summer/early fall. We chartered a boat for Sept 25th, rented all
the extra gear for these deep dives (extra large tanks, nitrox mixtures,
pony bottles), and even got Peter Kerrebrock (an experienced U-853 diver)
to speak at last month's club meeting. But at 5 am on the appointed day,
the charter boat captain had to postpone the trip due to rough seas. So we
rescheduled for this past Wednesday. We loaded our gear on the boat,
cruised out of the harbor, and headed directly into 20 knot winds and rough
seas just outside the breakwater. We were about a mile or so off the Rhode
Island coast when the captain decided it was just too rough to make the
9-mile trip out to the U-boat. Foiled again! Not wanting to return all
our gear unused again, we decided on doing two wreck dives closer in to
shore.
After realizing that the German submarine was not going to be reachable
today either (just like two weeks ago when we tried the first time), we
decided to dive the L-8. This is a WW1 vintage US submarine that was
decommissioned and then used as target for ordnance practice. The wreck
lies at about 105 feet and leans slightly to its port side. After
finding the buoy and mooring the boat we all descended, full of
anticipation. Sadly enough, the visibility did not get better the deeper
we went but rather got worse. When we arrived at the conning tower,
visibility was around 4-5 feet and it was quite dark. Being the
experienced wreck diver he is, Peter had brought a wreck reel and
rapidly started moving towards the bow. Due to the limited visibility,
Robert, Darren, and Darrel decided to return to the surface. I was lucky
enough to be Peter's buddy and hence I decided to stay. Towards the bow
there is a large crack and you can actually see the remaining half of
the forward torpedo tubes. Peter actively gestured with one hand "going
into" the hole to show "torpedo tube". I of course misunderstood this
and thought he meant "let's penetrate". No freaking way! I won't even
fit in that tiny hole! After I signaled this to Peter I saw him crack a
big smile.....
After going around the bow (and hitting the a max depth of 108') we made
our way back to the stern and took a look at the rudder. Peter was nice
enough to point out the different hatches etc on the way back and even
lifted the electric engine room hatch for me. After reaching the conning
tower again, I still had 7 minutes of bottom time left and we returned
to the crack. This time Peter went inside while I stayed on the outside.
Peter later told me there is an opening from the crack to the conning
tower. Anyhow, Peter used his very impressive light setup (if you ever
need a set of high quality searchlights to look for high flying planes
or neighbors living a few miles away - Peter is the man to design them!)
to light up the interior. Rather large space. At this point I had 3
minutes of bottom time left and we started to make it back to the
mooring line. After a nice, slow ascent with safety stop I made it back
to the surface, while Peter did a deco stop at 20 feet (I was on 28%
Nitrox and he used air). Total dive time was 36 minutes. Overall a very
cool dive, even though visibility was dismal. Without Peter's guidance,
the dive would probably not have been that good and the magic word of
the day is: "Wreck reel".
As Carl said, he had buddied up with Peter Kerrebrock, who was already
familiar with the L-8 sub, and who had the right equipment for the murky
water. (By the way, I claim the visibility was only 1-2 feet with my
light.) Those of us in the other buddy group followed the mooring line
down into the darkness, bumped into a steel surface, and couldn't even tell
we were on a submarine, let alone at the conning tower. When doing deep
boat dives, it's very important to ascend on the mooring line, particularly
in the poor visibility and rough surface conditions facing us. If you
can't find that mooring line, and you have to make a free ascent through
the murk, you stand a good chance of experiencing vertigo, missing your
deco/safety stop, and/or surfacing far from the boat, which might not be
able to spot you in the rough seas. Needless to say, our buddy group
didn't want to stray far from the mooring line anchor point, which didn't
make for a very enjoyable dive.
Oh, did I mention that one of us so-called experienced divers did a
beautiful backward-roll entry into the water, only to discover that he
didn't have his weight belt on? I won't say who it was, but his initials
are the same as mine.
The rough seas were getting worse, so the captain decided to go back into
the protected harbor and have us do our 2nd dive on an overturned barge
sitting on the shallow bottom. But even inside the breakwater, the surface
was rough and the visibility was still only 2-3 feet. After descending
down the anchor line, we were able to move around the wreck by following
some kind of linear structures, but because of the near-zero vis, we
couldn't really figure out what the barge looked like, or its orientation.
I eventually came to a pointy bow-like thing, which doesn't fit my mental
image of a barge. All of us were able to retrace our paths along the
linear structures, return to the anchor after a 35 minute dive, and ascend
up the anchor line. On the positive side, the water temperature was about
60 F, even at the 105 ft depth of the first dive.
Of course, we still want to dive the U-853, but it looks like it may not be
until next year.
Folly Cove
Divers:
I'm sending this now, 'cos I'm lame and forgot to send one out a couple of
weeks ago when we did the dive, but I was reminded yesterday when we had a
second attempt at diving the U-boat down in Rhode Island.
On our first attempt the weather forecast was 2 to 4 foot waves and 15 to
20 knot winds rising to 4 to 8 foot waves and 20 to 25 knot winds, so the
dive got cancelled. Having been ready to do the U-boat I was all set with
twin 120 cu ft tanks full of nitrox, so Darren and I went out and dove
Folly Cove instead, which was flat as a pancake. I lent one of the tanks to
Darren and we had a monster 75 minute dive with plenty of air to spare. We
saw lots of anenomies and starfish above 25 foot and lots of fish down at
40 foot, but by far the best thing was the torpedo ray! We were swimming
along and all of a sudden we noticed this 4 to 5 foot long ray just hanging
out on the sandy bottom half covered in sand. I was trying to swim a little
closer to have a good look, while Darren was trying to get out of its
way. I only found out afterwards that torpedo rays can deliver a 200 volt
shock and are one of the few marine creatures in New England that can be
deadly to humans! Darren unlike myself had the virtue of having taken a
fish I.D. course. Darren brought his trident and catch bag with him and
managed to catch two flounder durign the dive. We also saw a school of
pollock at depth and swam over 4 skates hiding in the sand one the way
back. It wasn't the U-boat, but was well worth it anyway.
- Darrel Robertson
Isles of Shoals (More Close Encounters of the Seal Kind)
Divers:
In Keith's e-mail from last week, he described the close encounters he had
with seals at the Isles of Shoals. Keith ended his e-mail by saying "I
have to believe that that level of interaction is rare." Well, after the
club outing today to the Isles of Shoals, I can definitely say that it is
NOT rare, because the same thing happened on our dives. We did both dives
on the west side of Duck Island, where most of the seals hang out
(primarily because Luisa threatened the captain with mutiny if she didn't
see a seal). Around the perimeter of the island we could see lots and lots
of seals sunning themselves on this beautiful day. We split up into 3 dive
pairs and headed out in separate directions. Carl and I headed straight
for the shallows just off the island's edge. After sitting quietly on the
bottom (at a depth of only 20 ft or less) we started seeing some harbor
seals swimming around us, but at a distance (visibility was about 15 feet).
After waiting a few more minutes, we decided to swim off in another
direction. It was then that Carl felt something touching his fin. I had
my head buried in some rocks looking for lobster, when Carl motioned that I
should turn around. WOW! Right there with us was one of the seals! I was
so astonished that I think I almost swallowed my regulator. I let him
nibble on my fin, and he used his front flipper (paw?) to gently move my
leg around. Note: they have pretty impressive claws on those paws. When
that seal finally left us, Carl and I started heading back to the boat, and
more seals continued to circle around us. Carl had a snout-to-mask staring
contest with a large gray seal. (Carl claims he won.) We got back on the
boat after nearly an hour-long dive, and exchanged stories with the other
club members. Everyone had seen seals, and Tom and Hayley had also had
face-to-face close encounters. After a very short surface interval we
started our second dive at a slightly different location. The water
temperature was about 53 F, and many of us noticed a distinct chill at the
beginning of our second dive. We didn't see any seals underwater on this
dive, but we did notice some pretty big lobsters in some of the traps. We
also stumbled across this strange patch of near-zero visibility, due to
some kind of milky white substance in the water and on the ground. The
highlight of the second dive for me was observing a crab eating a lobster.
(I have also seen a lobster eating a crab.)
We got back to the dock around 12:30, and all six of us celebrated our good
fortune by having a leisurely lunch at an outdoor restaurant in downtown
Portsmouth, followed by some delicious ice cream. Great dives, splendid
weather, and good food. Maybe we should make this an annual club event.
- Robert Granetz
Isles of Shoals (Close Encounters of the Seal Kind)
Divers:
Kevin and I completed five dives over the weekend,
three on Saturday and two on Sunday. All dives were on
the south side of Duck Island. The seals were known to
be at this location, and that is where we found them.
Dive 1:
Dive 2:
The seal settled down and began calmly chewing on
strands of kelp. Kevin snapped off a piece and held it
out. The seal seemed to consider it for a moment and
then reached over and took the kelp in its mouth. It
flipped over onto its back and began slowly shredding
the kelp with its flipper. All of this activity
went on for several minutes. I just hoped that it
would continue until my air ran low. Needing its own
air, the seal surfaced and came back down to join us.
This time the seal began blowing bubbles out of its
nose, perhaps in an attempt to mimick us. Whatever the
reason, Kevin and I were impressed. While blowing
bubbles, the seal was also making an audible
exhalation noise. We did the same in return, hoping
that we were communicating something positive, not
stressful.
We played around like this for a few minutes longer.
The seal disappeared to the surface again but this
time did not return for several minutes. Thinking it
was finished with us, and low on air, Kevin and I
headed back to the boat. While I was kicking along I
felt my fins hitting something. I thought I was
kicking some rocks but that seemed strange because I
was sure we had passed them already. When I looked
back I saw the seal nibbling on my fins!!! It had
followed us back! When it had gotten my attention, it
went down to Kevin and did the same. We stayed for
another minute but we were already low on air and made
for the surface. The seal stayed in position and
watched us leave. It almost seemed sad with those big
saucer eyes.
The remaining dives were good but anticlimactic
(except for the mammoth three foot lobster that we
stumbled on during the last dive). We saw lots of
seals, sometimes getting close to them. On the last
dive we observed four or fives seals laying on the
bottom in a group. We have no idea what they were
doing, although it looked like they were resting. But
I'll never forget that second dive. I have to believe
that that level of interaction is rare. It is
incredible that these undomesticated animals would
trust us enough to let us play with them and touch
them, not expecting food rewards, but just for their
own amusement.
- Keith Thoresz
U-853 Submarine, off RI coast
Divers:
Dive #1:
Summary:
We went prepared with EAN28 to get a longer bottom
time. 28 is a lean mixture appropriate for the max
depth of the sub at high tide (~135 ft.) It would be
worth watching the tide and trying for a 30% mixture.
The sub has three moorings. Two are directly next
to one another, and I think they lead down to the
stern and the conning tower. The other leads down more
towards the bow; we descended on this line. Vis being
pretty poor, we didn't see the boat until we were
almost right on top of it. Slowly the conning tower
with its antiaircraft guns came into view. What an
amazing sight! We settled onto the deck at 110 ft. and
did a narcosis check. All clear, we proceeded over the
side and worked our way around the hull, inspecting
the many openings along the side.
Eight minutes at depth. On the opposite side of
the sub we jumped back up to the deck and looked over
the conning tower and torpedo tubes. A school of fish
(sorry, didn't ID them) was hanging all over the
conning tower, and a giant sea raven camouflaged
itself in the rust. We spent the rest of our time
inspecting the giant hole in the deck in front of the
conning tower. This hole, no doubt made by the many
depth charges that sunk her, reveals the bones of some
of the 55 soldiers that died in the sub. Grisly.
Fifteen minutes at depth and time to head back. We
descend the line and make a three minute stop at 50
ft. We proceed to 15 feet and make another 5 minute
stop. Got plenty of air in our steel 100's and can
afford to off-gas a little extra nitrogen.
The sub was such an awesome sight, the time was so
limited and the water was so warm that we wanted to
dive the sub again. Sadly, without another tank of
nitrox this was not realistically possible. To return
another time...
Dive #2:
Summary:
- Keith Thoresz
Nubble Light, York, Maine
Divers:
It was a beautiful day to dive on Saturday-- an especially beautiful one
for a diver's first New England dive ever (mine!). It was about 75 degrees
F when we arrived at 9a and the water temperature was around 52 degrees F
at 10a when we entered. There were 2 other large diving classes going on,
but we managed to avoid them for the most part.
Nubble
Lighthouse dive is
a relatively easy rocky entrance, but keep an eye out for high tide, which
may suck your belongings out to sea. It was great visibility for the first
dive-- about 25 feet-- and decent visibility for the second dive at 15-20
ft.
We saw a great headstone right off left of the entrance that read, "Larry
Bowdish III, the best d*** diver I ever saw," which was pretty intriguing.
For both of my dives, we headed off at 0 degrees. There were millions of
tiny white starfish and many larger purple starfish along the rocks and
plants. We saw 3-4 lobster traps full of hefty Maine lobsters and a few
others scurrying around the bottom. Keith handed me a lobster for my first
experience tugging on a real live lobster. Fortunately, it wasn't too
feisty (actually, it might have been sick...). There were several large
crabs to be seen as well as numerous little hermit crabs. We also saw 2
yellow Sea Ravens along the bottom and several large brown flounder.
Robert and Keith said that they also saw many tiny flounder along the sandy
areas, which were amazingly camouflaged to the sandy bottom. There were
several schools of fish swimming by us as we swam from the entrance that
didn't seem to be too bothered by the hordes of divers all over the place.
By the time all was said and done, it was about 1:30p when we left and the
temperature on the beach was about 80-85 degrees F. We rounded out the day
with a visit to Brown's Ice Cream Parlor on Rt. 1A (grrreat ice cream!!!).
Overall, it was a pretty great day.
- Hayley Davison
Poling and Nina-T wrecks
Divers:
On Saturday afternoon, John Koser and I (Robert Granetz) went out with
Cape Ann Divers
to the wrecks of the Poling and Nina-T. These are both in deep
water (100+ feet for our dives), just a mile or so beyond the Gloucester
Harbor breakwater. We each used one of the club's dive computers (which
club members can rent for $3, by the way), but with a surface interval of
just one hour, our bottom time was still very limited. I also rented a
pony bottle (small tank and reg, strapped to the main tank, for redundancy
and emergencies). This is my 9th time on the Poling, and my 3rd time on
the Nina-T, so I acted as tour guide for John, who was doing these wrecks
for the first time. The Poling is a big steel tanker (actually, the stern
two-thirds of it) which cracked apart and sank during a winter storm in
January 1977. We went down the mooring line to the stern, and then I took
John down the entire length to the broken end, and then back along the
starboard side, returning to the stern area. There are several inviting
hatches on the deck, and I went down into one. We didn't have the wreck
reel (which you can also rent from the club), so I didn't penetrate beyond
the hatch area. The visibility was very good, and you could see across the
deck from one side to the other (40 feet). On the way up, we did a
3-minute safety stop on the hang bar, which Cape Ann Divers has recently
implemented.
Back on deck, we quickly changed tanks, ate some snacks provided by the
captain, enjoyed the beautiful weather, and watched the other divers. On
these advanced wreck dives, you see divers with all sorts of technical
gear: big double tanks, stage bottles, drysuit argon bottles, Navy
SEAL-like BC's, huge lighting systems, and even an underwater propulsion
unit. And everyone is very efficient and quick with gearing up.
Nevertheless, John and I were the first ones down on both dives.
The Nina-T was an abandoned wooden fishing trawler that was towed out and
sunk on purpose in September 1997. I dove it with Aleks Engel (past club
president) just a few weeks after it was sunk, and I remember thinking that
it wasn't going to last very long. But today we found that it has held up
pretty well. Again, I took John for a tour completely around the boat, and
then we explored the deck, which is slanted quite a bit, since the boat is
leaning over to port. We both swam through the wheelhouse and then over to
the mooring line, which was anchored to the large winch in front of the
wheelhouse. The water temperature was 45 F at our depth of 104 feet, and
in my wetsuit, I was definitely getting cold by the end of this second
dive. John was using his leaky drysuit, but still managed to stay warm.
Again we did a slow ascent and a safety stop on the bar. Boy, these were
fun wreck dives!
We're thinking about doing this again with some more club members, and
bringing along the club's video camera as well. John is a PADI-certified
instructor, so any club member who wants to get advanced certification
could dive with him on these wrecks, and have it count toward the course.
- Robert Granetz
P.S. Darren, I hear that the boat was full when you tried to reserve...I
got the last spot!
Cathedral Rocks
Divers:
On Sunday morning, Carl Stjernfeldt, Jorge Barrera, and myself (Robert
Granetz) went diving at
Cathedral Rocks, near the tip of Rockport.
This is considered an advanced site, both because
of its depth, and because a little bit of surf can make the
entry and exit difficult, but it was calm and easy for our dives. Although
the weather in Boston was hot and humid, it was really comfortable here. On
the first dive, Carl and I submerged immediately off the rocks and headed
out toward a bunch of lobster traps we had seen in the distance. The
Cathedral site is a jumble of really huge boulders underwater, thickly
covered with dense, lush vegetation swaying back and forth in the surge.
We got down to 65 feet, and saw all the usual critters along the way.
Despite the previous night's torrential thunderstorms, the visibility was
still good, about 20 feet. We passed under lots of lobster trap lines,
which gets to be a pain with the dive flag. Our navigation back to the
entry point was perfect, and we relaxed on the rocks between dives and
watched the dozen or so other divers coming and going. On the second dive,
Jorge and I swam out a ways on the surface before descending, and we
eventually got down to 80 feet (!), where the boulders end and the
landscape turns to flat and sandy. Cathedral Rocks is known for its depth,
and that's definitely the deepest I've ever been on a shore dive on Cape
Ann. Jorge just got his lobster license last week, and he tried out his
hunting skills for the first time, to no avail. But then again, this
season I haven't been doing well at catching them either. The water is
still quite cold for this time of year, a chilly 45 F. Rather surprising,
considering the hot weather we've been having. Back on land, I finished up
by having a leisurely lunch on the rocks and chatting with some of the
other divers.
- Robert Granetz
Lanes Cove
Divers:
A week ago Sunday, four club members, Darren Obrigkeit, John Koser, Jorge
Barrera, and myself (Robert Granetz) went diving at
Lanes Cove for Father's
Day. Jorge and I arrived early and did our first dive before Darren and
John showed up. I was hoping to bag some lobster, but didn't find any
keepers. We know they were out there, though, because a departing diver
showed off a pretty big one to us. You may remember that the skies last
Sunday morning were very ominous, with constant rumbling thunder. Despite
the threatening weather, the surface conditions were quite calm in the
morning, and entry/exit was relaxing. Amazingly, we could hear the thunder
very well underwater, even better than on land. As we exited, Darren and
John were just arriving. Despite being a warm and humid day, John was
diving in a drysuit. Personally, I find drysuits to be great in the
winter, but in warm weather you basically have just a few minutes after
donning the suit before you suffer heat prostration and vaporize. But
John's done most of his diving in Florida, so maybe his thermostat is
broken. Anyway, John found a way to cool off by conveniently springing a
few leaks in his drysuit. Did I mention, by the way, that the water was
still a rather cool 47 F ? When they returned, Jorge and I set out for our
second dive. The thunder was getting louder now, and the winds were
starting to pick up ahead of an intense cold front. I asked Jorge to take
the flag for this dive. But early in the dive, I glanced over and
noticed that the flag line was completely slack, and we discovered that the
flag and float had broken away from the line. (The rubber surgical tubing
link had snapped.) We surfaced carefully, and could just barely see the
flag way off in the distance, being blown away by the storm winds. I
decided to go after it, and it's a good thing I work out in the pool,
because I think I was halfway to Greenland by the time I caught up with
that flag. Boy, was that exhausting! (Ironically, Flag Day was last week
too.) We got back to shore after rescuing the flag, when Jorge discovered
that he had dropped the flag line spool somewhere near the shore! With
Darren's help, we mounted a successful search and recovery of the flag
line. Darren and John then did their second dive without further incident.
They surfaced just as lightening was hitting the water in the distance. We
were packing the last of our gear into the cars when the skies opened up
with a torrential downpour. Pretty good timing, actually.
- Robert Granetz
Back Beach (Fish ID class)
Divers:
This Saturday, June 2 a full crew of 10 divers from the Scuba Club went out
for Fish ID course dives at
Back Beach in Rockport, MA.
Conditions: Rainy, upper 50's air temp, lower 50's/upper 40's water temp.
Visibility: 25'
Dive site description: easy sandy entry, depths ranging from 15-30'
Dive summary: In spite of the rainy topside conditions, the dive offered
great visibility and relatively balmy water temperatures. Dives times
ranged up to 50-60 minutes and the variety of sea life was excellent,
including sightings of skates, ocean pout, sea ravens, lumpfish, flounder,
and schools of pollock. In short, we had a lot of opportunities to
practice identifying sea life.
- Darren Obrigkeit
Normans Woe
Divers:
This past weekend, I was back visiting Boston and took the opportunity
to go diving with Torkel Engeness at one of our favorite dive spots,
Norman's Woe, Cape Ann.
That turned out to be a great idea! The season
has definitely started!
We arrived at Norman's Woe on Saturday at noon. The weather was ok,
shifting between sunshine and threatening clouds - it stayed dry,
luckily. There was some surf but entry and exit was not difficult. It
turned out that there was considerable wave motion even at depth, and
the visibility was good but not fantastic. Maybe 20 feet. The water
temperature was not bad - we did not have an official water temp.
reading but I would guess 50 Fahrenheit or so. We were reasonably
comfortable in our wetsuits.
Within a few minutes, we had spotted numerous lobsters, and encountered
a relatively large
lumpfish,
which let us get very close to it. Soon
thereafter, we came by several skates, also remarkably comfortable with
our presence, allowing us to get right up to them - I even touched one
without scaring it away. We also saw several other large fish which we
still haven't identified. During the dive, we came across several more
lumpfish, including one that was guarding a huge clump of eggs, which it
refused to leave. I could push it off its spot, but it was not going to
abandon its eggs. It is the male lumpfish that guards the eggs, for up
to two months before the eggs hatch.
Back on land, we were excited about all this sealife and started
talking about the lumpfish. In Scandinavia, lumpfish roe is (rightly)
considered a delicacy and is eaten fresh as a relatively affordable
caviar, and the meat from the male lumpfish is considered a delicacy as
well. We got very excited about the idea of catching one of these and
eating it for dinner. We decided to bring a plastic shopping bag with us to
see if we could catch one with our hands and put it in the bag. It
seemed doable given their reluctance to move around.
So we went out on our second dive in search of lumpfish. As we entered
the water, I spotted a two-foot striped bass circling around. After a
couple of minutes we saw a lumpfish sitting on a rock. On the lumpfish,
a pair of fins have evolved into a suction cup which it uses to attach
itself to rocks (hence the 'lumpsucker', or in Danish 'stenbider' (rockbiter)).
This one was firmly attached to a rock and it took me a moment or two to
get it off. However, it was kind of small, and I felt bad about taking
it. So we let it go and headed in the direction that we had spotted a
larger one on our previous dive. Unfortunately, our navigation skills
are not that impressive, and we never found it. We reached an area with
sandy bottom - I had never been there before, but we saw a few more
skates and other fish. We changed directions a bit, still heading away
from the shore, but at 165 degrees on my compass rather than 225. A few
more minutes into the dive, Torkel spotted a HUGE lumpsucker, hovering
right above the bottom, no eggs in sight. I figured that this one would
definitely get away from us, but I'd give it a try. I made a quick move
and I was holding this giant in my hands. It barely tried to escape, and
since it has a lumpy tough skin, it was easy to get a good grip on it.
Torkel got out the shopping bag, and the fish was so large that it only
barely fit into the bag. So for the rest of the dive, I was carrying a
lumpfish in a shopping bag with me. Couldn't believe our luck. I kept
reminding myself that once out of the water, it wouldn't look very large
anymore. But when we got out of the water and looked at it, it was still
a monster.
On the way back from the beach to the car, we were stopped by the
environmental police, who seemed rather convinced that we were hiding
lobsters from them somehow, so they even went with us to check the
contents of our cooler, which was in the car. Luckily, there are no
restrictions on lumpfish in Massachusetts, and we had not taken any
lobsters, even though I gauged one that was legal - neither of us has a
Massachusetts lobster license at the moment.
Back at Torkel's place we weighed and photographed our catch. The thing
weighed a whopping 15 pounds, and when we gutted it, we found that it
was a female with at least two pounds of roe. We did a quick search on
the internet for some Danish recipes for lumpfish, and found several,
including a recipe for how to prepare fresh lumpfish roe/caviar. We
enjoyed the fresh roe on crackers with a glass of white wine, and baked
the filets in a white wine/tomato sauce which turned out great. The
filets had a strange jelly-like texture and were smaller than expected -
apparently the male has much nicer meat, but the taste was still very
good on this female. The skin is almost an inch thick. There was more
than enough roe, and the filets were enough for 4 people. What a day! If
you happen to catch a female with roe, this recipe worked out great:
First thing to do is to put the roe in a bowl and add some water. Churn
around the roe for example with an eggbeater, and get rid of the slimy
roe sacks when they get stuck to the eggbeater. Sieve the roe repeatedly
until the slime is gone. Just pour the water/roe mix through a normal
kitchen strainer, add water again and repeat until the slime is gone.
Drain thoroughly, and add the finely chopped (or grated) onions and the
finely chopped dill. Add lemon juice and salt to taste. You need a lot
of salt to get the taste right. Can be served immediately.
- Thomas (former MIT scuba club member) and Torkel (current
member)
Normans Woe
Divers:
47 F. That was the water temperature at
Normans Woe in Gloucester today.
That means lots of changes. For one thing, I switched back to a wetsuit
for my second dive of the day, and I was comfortable even at the end of a
44 minute dive. The wetsuit is less buoyant than my DUI drysuit, so
between dives I was able to chuck 4 lbs from the BC pockets, as well as the
ankle weights. Even more important, I can finally pee in the water again!
Another big change ... other divers! It's been a long time since I saw
anyone else at a dive site. Unfortunately, no one else from the MIT Scuba
Club could make it, so I was diving solo again. Normans Woe is not
typically an easy entry/exit, but there was a pretty stiff wind today out
of the east, so this site was better protected than most on Cape Ann.
Normans also involves hauling your gear a fairly long ways through a wooded
park, but today's sunshine, 60 F temperature, and strong breeze made for
pleasant hiking. And the final big change: sea life! The fish are back,
and so are the lobsters. I even gauged a few, but they were all a few
millimetres short still. There were a number of flounder, some huge, some
tiny juveniles. I also saw a sea raven hiding in the seaweed that carpeted
part of the bottom, as well as a stunning sculpin (I think) with
reddish-purple fins. I just hovered lazily and watched it for quite some
time, during which, I must have been carried quite a ways off course by the
current, since I surfaced far around on the other side of the cove. Kind
of embarrassing for someone who prides himself on navigation skills! I
started climbing up the rocks, thinking I could get back via land, but that
proved to be impassible, so I had to dive back into the surf and swim
underwater to my desired exit point. This was an excellent demonstration
of why it pays to surface with an ample supply of air in your tank.
- Robert Granetz
Lanes Cove
Divers:
Wow, what a difference seven weeks makes! On my last dive, ice was
cracking off my gear as I was taking it off. Today, however, was a
completely different story. I hadn't planned on going diving today, even
though I finally had some free time, because no one else in the scuba club
was available this weekend. But as the morning progressed, the weather
just got more and more springlike. By noontime, I couldn't resist it
anymore. I hurriedly got my gear together and decided to dive at
Lanes Cove
in Gloucester. I chose this site because it's a rocky shore that's
usually an easy entry/exit, which is an important consideration, given that
I was diving solo again. Conditions at the site were ideal...sunny, near
70 F, no wind, and calm water! (In contrast to the past few months, for
which "ideal" site conditions meant that the parking area had been plowed!)
Of course, the surface conditions are very misleading, since underwater,
spring has not arrived yet. So I donned my long underwear and my fleece,
and got into my drysuit. The weather was just the right temperature to
avoid overheating on land with all those layers on. The entry was a piece
of cake, and the dive was very relaxing. Lanes Cove has a series of ledges
running parallel to the shore line, which you swim up and over, dropping
5-10 feet in depth after each one. Visibility was a good 20-25 feet.
Eventually I got down to 50 feet, where the bottom changes to flat and
silty. There were huge anemone here, more than a foot tall. Also lots of
big crabs, as well as starfish and plenty of those lacy tube worms. Only
saw one lobster though, and it was kind of sickly looking. The water
temperature at depth was 39 F, and my dive lasted 41 minutes. Once back on
shore, there was finally no need for the winter coat, ski hat and gloves
that had become part of my diving accoutrement. I had a leisurely snack on
the rocks while basking in the sun. Yeah, I suppose I could get used to
this weather again.
I hope the warmer temperatures inspire lots of club members to get back in
the water soon.
- Robert Granetz
Niles Beach
Divers:
Well, it certainly was cold enough to dive this morning. Air temperature
was 22 F, with a wind chill in the single digits according to my car radio.
This was the last day of February, and I had to get in a dive in order to
finally achieve my goal of diving at least once every month for 12
consecutive months. I've been trying to do this ever since I got drysuit
certified a couple of years ago, but never quite managed to pull it off
until now. So I took the morning off and headed to
Niles Beach
in Gloucester. This is an easy dive site in any weather, so I feel
comfortable diving here when I don't have a buddy (like today), or when I
want to test out some new equipment. The underwater scenery here is never
what you would call thrilling, but it's particularly stark at this time of
year. Absolutely no mobile creatures...none...nada. I saw lots of tube
worms in the sandy bottom (they had very slow reaction times), lots of
translucent white cocoon-like things (anybody know what they are?), and
some mollusks that looked like a cross between oysters and scallops. I
took a few of these back to work for a lunchtime snack. Delicious! The
water temperature was a nippy 35 F, which made for some VERY COLD fingers
by the end of my 36 minute dive. And they certainly didn't warm up back at
the surface, given the weather conditions. Once again, there was sea ice
on my equipment by the time I got everything back into the car. In fact, I
was most of the way back to MIT before my fingers and toes finally warmed
up!
- Robert Granetz
Magnolia Rocks
Divers:
Darren Obrigkeit and I (Robert Granetz) set out to enjoy some more winter
diving this past Sunday, but things don't always work out the way you want
them to. We initially chose to go to
Cathedral Rocks,
near the tip of
Rockport. Even though it was a beautiful day, there was quite a stiff
breeze along the coast, which was driving big breakers right into the
rocks. Given the apparent wind direction, and past experience, we doubled
back and went over to Magnolia Rocks.
Surprisingly, a strong wind and fast current were generating pretty good
surf here too, although from nearly the opposite direction as at Cathedral.
(How is that possible?) Undaunted, we figured we could make an entry by
waiting for the occasional calmer periods between the wave sets. It's not
clear you can do that for the exits, of course, since it's difficult to see
distant waves when you're bobbing at the surface. Entering rough surf is
more difficult in the winter because you have to use your snorkel only;
breathing through your reg at the surface often causes it to freeze open
and free-flow until your tank empties out. (I've personally seen this
happen to two other divers.) Anyway, we got in and then ran into two
problems. First, I couldn't get much below 20 feet because I couldn't
clear my ears. (It was the first and last time that I'll ever try diving
with a bad cold.) And second, the visibility was just plain terrible, no
doubt due to the rough surf. Let's just say that this was not one of our
longer dives. After we got out (that's a little too dignified -- we looked
more like pregnant walruses getting thrown onto the rocks), we drove all
around Cape Ann scouting out the many dive sites, and found that in
hindsight, the best choice would have been Loblolly Cove. Folly Cove also
looked diveable, but there was enough surf that I think the vis would have
been just as bad as at Magnolia. Funny thing, we didn't see any other
divers on Cape Ann on Sunday (but lots of bird watchers). Oh well, there's
always February.
- Robert Granetz
P.S. How many places can you go snowboarding on Saturday and ocean diving
on Sunday, all within an hour's drive of home?
Last updated by Robert Granetz on 22 February 2002.
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