From Deboche, follow the main trekking route to the village of Milinggo (the lodge in Milinggo will likely to be closed but there are a couple of Nepali tea shops where one might be able to get some supplies). Just after passing Milinggo, take a trail branching right and uphill. The trail continues steeply uphill and ands at a T-intersection with another trail, at which point you should turn left. The trail now traverses the slopes without gaining or loosing much altitude and is fairly good with the exception of one somewhat precarious landslide crossing. The trail comes to the Monmo Khola Valley just above the village of Omaka (Omega) located on the opposite bank (the location of the village on the map is wrong). Locate the bridge above the village, cross the river and follow a path (at first not distinct) up the valley. Soon you will see the first climb, 'No Place for Ferrets", a beautiful cascading ice flow. We camped in the flat area (with some stone structures built by yak herders) accross the river from this climb, 2 hours from Deboche. The village of Omaka can also be reached from Pangboche on a good trail (somewhat larger linear distance than from Deboche but no altitude gain).
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The climbs are spread out from the camp to the head of the valley. The approach to all climbs from the campsite takes about 1 hr., as getting to the farther climbs involves less uphill bushwacking. The clibms are now described from right to left. Descent from all climbs is by rappel.
1. No Place for Ferrets, WI4, 150m. Beautiful cascading flow consisting of three steps.
2. Little Weasel, WI4+, 70m. A short but hard crux early on is followed by moderate climbing.
3. Stroke of Genius, WI3+, 150m S-shaped climb with a wide steep flow at the start (may be thin) followed by easier climbing to the final steep pillar.
Further up the valley you come across impressive 'twin' flows, with another thin line squeezed in between.
4. Ukraina-ko baliyo (Ukrainian Strength), WI5, 200+m. 2.5 pitches of moderate WI3-4 climbing lead to funky cauliflower
artichoke ice at the base of
the steep crux section which will be either very wet or chandeliered and brittle. Above the crux climbing becomes easier (WI4).
5. Unclimbed. Waiting for a strong party to try :-) In 2010 the ice line looked fully connected.
6. Sunflower, WI5, 200m. Beautiful ice flow, similar in character to its twin.
Some ways up the valley from the twin climbs there is an obvious gully.
7. Heart Throb, WI3+, 90m. Thirty meters of very low-angle ice followed by 60 steeper meters. Named for a beloved barefoot toe, rudely stepped upon by a cow (and then repeatedly kicked into the ice).
Next comes a wide flow split by a big cave. Climbing around the cave on the left looks possible.. or perhaps hard mixed routes out of the cave?
8. Unclimbed.
Finally, a cascading ice flow at the head of the valley: looks moderate, but contains a very steep step.
9. Standard Route, WI5, 130m. The steep column is the obvious crux, the rest of the climb is much easier.
The crux of 'Sunflower'. Photo by Dave Custer.
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Dave Custer on the Standard Route.
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Pasang Chhutin on 'No Place for Ferrets'.
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