Photo Index
(includes
further commentary)
While these sound negative, in some ways they are (and I was
surprised when I was shown this by Mr. Toshio Okada) actually
positive. Just as I don't think the 1960's cultural change in the US
was all bad, and in fact grew out of flaws in American society, so it
also seems these changes in Japan have resulted from a rebellion
against too much rigidity and familial power. It used to be
that families enforced compliance with family expectations and demands
(e.g., needing family permission to marry a particular person), and we
are all also familiar with the patriarchical model where men dominated
and women obeyed. Some of the splintering and shifts in marriage
trends and the like can be, I think, traced to a rebellion against
these old, rigid, unbending traditions. And technology has certainly
allowed people to get to know those with similar ideas and interests
they might never otherwise have met (just as with many of us in the
US) - hence broadening social contacts.
All that said, the fact still remains that families have been
splintering, youth crime is on the rise, literacy is down, materialism
is way up, and (as some have told me) a shocking 25% of high school
girls are engaged in some kind of sexual trade activity, ranging from
relatively innocent stuff to downright prostitution. Older people all
over Japan express worry and concern about the young generation -
and the young generation seems to mostly just want to go shopping (at
least from what I have heard).
HOWEVER, I should note that I saw a TV documentary that also offered a
ray of hope. The documentary followed a group of students who were
working on a play about a horrific environmental tragedy from about 50
years ago - the Minamata mercury poisoning case, in which hundreds of
people in a small town named Minamata developed moderate to severe
neurological damage from consuming fish that contained mercury from
industrial dumping. (Historic footage and photos show people and
animals (such as cats that liked fish) experiencing uncontrollable
body-wracking and incapacitating spasms and tremors. A severely
brain-damaged young woman is held lovingly in a posed family photo,
her eyes rolled back into her head, her expression slack and
oblivious. Many of these people would live their whole lives severely
mentally damaged, deranged, or otherwise incapacitated by the
poisoning - some are still alive today.) The students who were
preparing the play visited Minamata and were deeply touched as they
struggled with learning about and trying to convey the human story of
the Minamata tragedy. The earnestness in their efforts to teach
others and also to honor the victims and their families was in itself
moving - and to me a sign of hope about the status of Japan's young
people.
Another recent problem is the rise in crimes committed by foreignors.
In one recent news story, an entire innocent family, including
children, was murdered by an Asian (non-Japanese) gang seeking money.
(However, it's known that some Japanese do aid the foreign criminal
organizations, as I think was the case with this particular
tragedy.)
However, all that said, I saw many, many bicycles parked here and
there (or in massive numbers at train stations) - and not a single one
was locked down. (Don't try this in Boston!)
Moreover, TV news, although it seemed to mention the occasional
murder or other crime, simply did not contain anywhere near the
same order of magnitude of violent crime reports that American
TV news might.
And lastly, although the Japanese economy is said to be way down, and
that many Japanese are unemployed and that jobs are moving overseas
(to mainland Asia and India), most shops and storefronts appeared to
be open, and the department stores were still bustling - at least,
compared to my most recent stroll through a particular suburban
Boston-area mall.
As much as Japan is said to be declining, in many ways it's still
doing well.
Some Japanese trains, train stations and restaurants provide other
modern options: recordings of water sounds to mask bathroom noises at
the touch of a button(!), disinfectants for the toilet seat, and
special sensors for flushing the toilet.
And yet ... go into other bathrooms - in shops, stores, restaurants,
and along roads and in train stations, and you'll find the old
traditional seat-less situation, in addition to not-very-clean floors.
Some of the ritziest department stores still seem to have 75%
old-style seatless bathrooms. Some say they are more hygienic, but
the Western-style toilet seat areas seem to get eager lines of people
who'd just rather not deal with the traditional alternative.
Irrelevant side note: most Japanese households use a system of heating
water directly at the kitchen sink or shower and/or bath via gas water
heaters. Also, a number of modern sinks (such as those at hotels)
allow one to set the temperature separately from turning the water on
or off - allowing one to turn on/off the water without having to reset
the temperature every time. I think both of these technologies are
useful for saving both energy and water. Worth thinking about?
Perhaps most strikingly Japanese are the shrines interspersed here and
there among the other buildings. Shinto shrines - sometimes as large
as a house, sometimes as small as a dollhouse - crop up in unexpected
places: between houses, or across from a gas station, or on the
grounds of a Buddhist temple. The Buddhist temples range from large
to gargantuan, and some reside in the heart of Tokyo. The more
popular temples (e.g., the huge Asakusa temple) feature not just
various buildings for visitors and monks, but also rows of small
souvenir and trinket/toy shops, in addition to offering "omikuji"
sellers (a sort of fortune-telling similar to drawing lots), areas for
burning incense, water for ritual purification, plenty of photo ops,
and so on.
And perhaps the most disturbing place I visited in Japan was
the Tokyo Forum (maybe the Tokyo International Forum?) - an adjunct to
the Tokyo Eki train station, I believe. Built of steel and glass, its
very presence seemed to subjugate Nature and humanity into mere facets
of a mechanical existence. In other words, when I entered the
building, I felt like a cog in some monstrous futuristic machine. The
trees planted next to the Forum seemed like mere biological components
of an otherwise inorganic entity. Heck, the steel bathrooms seemed
sterile both literally (a good thing) but also emotionally/socially
(not so good). As someone who has commented on Japanese animation, I
just had to think: Is this mechanical entity in part an outgrowth of
the futuristic anime movies, or are the futuristic anime movies
reacting to things like this?
The houses I saw seemed to mix Western with Japanese elegantly.
Two-story, spacious(!), and clean, they feature gleaming wooden
entrance halls (always with the place to take off shoes and put on
in-house slippers), shiny modern kitchens, a thoroughly Western dining
room with table and chairs, but also traditional tatami living rooms
for lounging around on the tatami floor around a low table and perhaps
sipping tea and snacking on something tasty. Traditional tatami
bedrooms with futons are apparently on the decline, however, so I'm
guessing the bedrooms these days might have Western-style beds.
Historic sites near Nagano include the popular and very large Zenkoji
temple, an extensive manor house/museum that belonged to and documents
the politically powerful Tanaka family (Tanaka Honke Museum in
Suzaka), and a museum in Obuse
devoted to works by Hokusai, the painter who made that famous
painting of a huge ocean wave arching over a boat, and who made a
series of "manga"
sketches in the early 1800's.
Within a couple hours' drive from Mito is not only Tokyo, but also
large swaths of relatively undeveloped land. Tiny villages are
nestled amidst neatly arranged fields, and trees and towering bamboo
cover hillsides and mountains. From my previous (1999) trip to Japan,
I also remember seeing shrines and temples scattered here and there on
hills and along the road. My favorite from that previous visit was
the Unganji Buddhist temple, whose beautiful garden offered what
seemed like "perfect" views from every possible angle (the bushes,
trees, and plants were all arranged very precisely so that everything
worked in harmony and looked intriguing and perfect no matter where
one walked), and where a box at the main temple building offered
photocopies of wise teachings written in traditional calligraphy for a
nominal donation fee. (On this web
site, the author(s) describes Unganji as having something "very
special"; it is a real temple, "not a tourist attraction"; this could
actually be felt as they crossed over the stream to enter the
temple grounds. Yes, I would have to agree!)
On the new side, Kyoto has one of the biggest, shiniest, and ritziest
train stations outside Tokyo Station's massive underground shopping
mall experience. The Kyoto Eki (train station) is only about 5-6
years old, and it includes a vast array of small stores (ranging from
gift shops, food shops, to convenience stores), a Disney movie
theater, a "Tezuka Osamu" shop/theatre/library, one large ritzy
Isetandepartment store that I THINK includes 11 or so floors (there is
an area where escalator after escalator descend in more or less one
long slope), multiple areas of dining ranging from McDonald's and
other cheap fast places (1st floor, near the Shinkansen speed trains),
to high class dining (11th floor, above the mall) - and oh yes,
trains: everything ranging from the subway, to the local commuter
rail(s), to Shinkansen speed rail access. Since it was November, the
train station's vast glass foyer (many stories tall) also featured a
gigantic lit-up Christmas tree that towered over an open dining
section. Hall after hall, platform after platform, shop after shop.
(Osaka city, nearby, has its own mega train station, though not QUITE
on the same scale.) I have since heard that some people vehemently
hate the Kyoto Eki, which, given its overwhelming commercialism and,
uh, sheer glitz and size, is not surprising. Still, it was less
dehumanizing than the Tokyo International Forum, even though I could
possibly fairly describe it as a cathedral to commerce.
Current Japanese Society and Culture
Splintering Families and Society?
My understanding of current Japanese society is that it is becoming
increasingly fractured and shallow. What I mean is that many families
are splintered, more people are divorcing and willing to admit it, and
relationships (home, work, social) are increasingly shallow and driven
by pleasure and materialism.Crime and Declining Japanese Society?
The media has made a fuss about the rising crime rates. Special
emphasis seemed to be placed on crimes by young people. One recent
scam involves a male voice calling on the phone and saying "ore, ore"
("It's me, it's me") and saying he's in trouble and needing cash -
hence bilking worried but gullible parents of lots of money.Side Culture/Tech Note: The Bathrom Quandry
Go into almost any Japanese house and look in the bathroom
(mind you, the door is almost always closed, because it's not
considered polite to leave the door open even if the room is vacant).
The toilet seat will probably be one of the hyper modern, heated jobs,
probably with the control panel offering a variety of hygienic water
spray options with touch controls for temperature, pressure, and
positioning. Coming back to US bathrooms afterwards feels almost like
a step backward in time.Random Cultural Notes
Impressions of Japan
Tokyo
My photos of Tokyo
Tokyo is an intriguing mix of very modern tech mixed with tradition.
The people walking around downtown Tokyo are generally dressed in
suits (the men) or other fashionable and expensive outfits (the
women), but every once in a while you might spot a woman in a kimono
waiting for a train. Traditional houses are interspersed with new
apartment complexes; small drab shopfronts are interspersed among
shiny lighted storefronts. Pots upon pots of plants line the street
in front of some houses and storefronts, a small reminder of the
graceful and well-pruned walled gardens common in the suburbs.
Speaking of streets, narrow roads open up into multi-lane Tokyo
thoroughfares, where clean, shiny cars - some ultra narrow and
compact, others venturing up into the Toyota Camry size range - buzz
along emitting exhaust fumes that, despite being polluting, somehow
still manage to smell a lot less nasty than what you might find in the
American Midwest. The train stations are sparklingly modern, and
still cleaner and brighter and shinier than most train stations I've
seen in the US (such as Boston, New York, DC); and more, they buzz
with excitement, possibly due to the polite, refined voices (some
prerecorded, others not) that constantly fill the air with announcements
for and about trains.My photos
related to Tokyo shopping
Expensive, opulent, multistory department stores offer the latest in
fashionable clothing along with a dazzling array of gleaming and
prettily arranged foods, ranging from sparkling fresh seafood, to
Japanese rice condiments, to HUGE, picture-perfect specimens of
apples, persimmons, grapes, and whatever else is in season. Other
multistory shops cater to electronics buffs and camera nuts, or
bookworms. Recorded messages politely, prettily, cheerfully, but
REPETITIVELY remind shoppers to be careful at every escalator. Still,
elsewhere in Tokyo there are the traditional, crowded open shopfront
markets where savvy shoppers come to get seafood, preserves,
vegetables, fruit, household items, and the like, and where vendors
cry loudly and enthusiastically "welcome, welcome" - in contrast to
the soft, polite versions murmured in the stuffier modern stores.Nagano
My Photos of
Nagano and its environs
Nagano, the site of the 1998 Winter Olympics, is a bustling city
nestled in an otherwise fairly rural valley. On the outskirts are
interspersed clusters of houses, orchards, vineyards, fields, and
great views of tree-covered mountains (sometimes shrouded in clouds).
Near Nagano are various towns with a large number of hot spring
hotels. Although some hot spring hotels are Western (i.e.,
Western-style chairs, tables, beds), it seems that many retain
traditional Japanese style rooms (tatami floor, low table, roll-out
futon beds) and serve intricate, multicourse Japanese meals (though a
recent such meal included a tiny morsel of elegant apple pie as an
opener).My photos
of the Tanake Honke Museum Garden
Mito and Environs
Mito as far as I remember it resembles suburban America, though more
crowded, less spacious, and almost always having the traditional stone
wall around each house's yard (with meticulously pruned trees peeking
over the top). As far as I remember from a previous trip to Japan,
it's fairly close to a sea port, and is near a bustling fish market
where very, very fresh fish and shellfish (etc.) are sold along with
various dried fish and other preserved seafood.Kyoto
Kyoto is another mixture of old and new ... with some of the very
newest, and some of the very oldest, on a big, big scale.My
general photos of Kyoto
On the old side is the tourist/scholar appeal of this city: the Shinto
shrines (2000+, according to a clueful Kyoto-native taxi driver), Buddhist temples
(1600+, according to same taxi driver, and apparently many still with
active monks/priests), and forts and castles and palaces. The
earliest surviving temple building within the city itself is the
Soubon Shakado, built around 1300, according to the clueful taxi
driver (but which I didn't see). And of course many other temples
have burned down and been rebuilt. These old wooden temples and such
are scattered throughout the city (a majority seem to be in the
northern half), among the shops, restaurants, houses, and hillsides of
Kyoto. Thankfully, Kyoto seems to have a self-imposed limitation on
building heights, so the occasional 5-story pagoda tower really stands
out, and historic temples do not have to compete with tall buildings
(even if their garden views have been altered somewhat). (There are
also other temples near Kyoto but not in the city itself, including
the nearly millennium-old Byodoin temple that is featured on the back
of the 10-yen coin, and the Houkaiji (said by the taxi driver to have
been built around 1050).)
The buildings are on grounds that range from large to spacious, and most feature gardens that have sculpted trees, strategically placed rocks, and ponds or small lakes. Some temples use rocks and/or gravel to create stone representations of waterfalls and rivers - more on this later.
The kitchen building is detached, I believe, and it has huge wooden beams crossing the ceiling to make it sturdy and secure, not to mention very thick wood supporting the ceiling. Off in one back room wall of the kitchen is an old graffiti sketch of a horse head. Ah, people.
Guide to Buddhist and Shinto deities and another useful Beginner's Guide for Buddhist sculpture.
The Byodoin has a museum off to the side (built partially underground to not impact the landscape), and which houses art and replica art of some of the paintings and sculptures found inside the Byodoin. One of the most striking set of paintings show the Buddha and his retinue descending to Earth to greet the souls of faithful believers after their deaths.
More about the Byodoin here, information and pictures here, and a virtual version of it is here.
For history buffs, it's well worth noting that the 7th abbot of this temple was Takuan, who was the teachor and mentor of a certain swordsman named Miyamoto Musashi. You've probably heard of Musashi in some way, shape, or form - he was a famous swordsman who wrote A Book of 5 Rings, and who was so good with the sword he stopped using a metal sword and switched to a wooden one. Fantasy game players the world over have picked up his name. Yes, he actually stayed at this temple. Other historic personages visited the temple as well, such as Sen-no-Rikyu, "father of Japanese tea," and Toyotomi Hideyoshi. (Oh, and this temple has nightingale floors too.)
BUT these are not the primary reason I liked this temple. The real distinguishing feature of this temple is that you get to meet real live Buddhist monks(?) who live here, including one young guy who gives tours and tells jokes. The abbot himself, Soen Ozeki, an energetic 72 year old with a ready grin and a great sense of humor, sits at a table laden with books, calligraphy wall hangings, prayer beads, and other items for sale. He's the author of those books and the calligraphy, and used to appear on Japanese TV. He'll happily crack jokes with visitors and pose with them for pictures, and will personally autograph any paper or book purchases. His enthusiasm is contagious, and my biggest gripe is he was constantly busy and didn't have time to talk very much.
Anyone who makes a purchase can write their name on a slip of paper in order to have the resident monks pray for their health the next morning. And prayer and meditation are also big parts of the monks' life at the temple (not just herding around tourists); the abbot's central meditation area, in fact, has no tatami mat at all on the hard wooden floor, to give the proper austere discipline as befits a serious abbot's meditations.
This was the only temple among the 9 or so I visited in Kyoto where the Buddhist monks actually seemed to go out of their way to talk with visitors (as a note, the Daisenin temple does not have a congregation, so it must rely on donations and visitor purchases for its maintenance). The atmosphere at this little temple was far more personal and friendly than at the bigger, vaster, richer or more famous temples choked with gold statues and busloads of tourists. (And many other temples simply don't allow visitors at all!) To me, it was truly the best part of historic Kyoto. (I can imagine it might all seem crassly commercial for an abbot to be signing autographs, but this really is the temple's primary source of money, and the abbot and the volunteer(?) staff are working to support themselves.) (P.S. Visitors are technically not allowed to photograph the temple grounds, so, well, I'm borrowing these other photos off the 'net by linking to them.)
Anyway, if you visit only a few temples in Japan, and you care more about spiritual atmosphere than grandeur and golden statues, consider Daisenin and Unganji. Just my opinion!
(If you do visit Kyoto, please note the English explanations and translations are sadly few and far between, but it's still a fascinating experience and a chance to visit the historic treasures of another country and culture. Plan to visit at most about 4-5 temples per day, given travel time and the fact most places close at 5pm (and some, like the Toji complex, close at 4pm).)
Text copyright 2003 Eri Izawa except where otherwise noted.