Research Project Reports:

Three major projects were undertaken:

A model of the propensity for a carabiner gate to open due to transverse oscillation of the rope during fall arrest
A measurement of the propensity for a carabiner gate to open due to transverse oscillation of the rope during fall arrest (not yet complete)
An investigation of the change in tensile strength and elasticity of nylon fibers subjected to rope marking ink (not yet complete)

Planned schedule of events (links lead to what actually happened):

• Beginning:
  • Week 1: Introduction. Lecture Games climbers play (context), brief movie/video about climbing, performance levels, safety systems, what drives the climbing market, & how physics fits in.
  • Week 2: & Week 3: Begin survey of open questions. Lecture & discussion driven by the instructor; when possible, a hands-on demo or exercise will be included. Topics might include:
    • (The real Week 4 ) Mechanics: fall arrest, force & energy, the Wexler equation, equipment ratings, next steps: EAS, belay devices, better models of rope performance,
    • Material properties: ice, corrosion, fatigue
    • Innovation: cam development, geometry & implications
    • Human factors & safety systems analysis:
    • Physiology: my background in this topic is weak, but students may have the expertise to address this topic.
    • Standardization: landscape, effects, next steps
• Start of projects:
  • Week 4: Project identification
  • Weeks 5 & 6: Further survey of open questions continues to be instructor driven. Students are defining projects & doing background research. Written proposal due.
• Fruition of projects:
  • Weeks 7 & 8: Student presentations based on project background, projects in full swing
  • Weeks 9, 10, & 11: Student presentation of project results
• End:
  • Week 12: Report writing workshop
  • Week 13: Wrap up, party, evaluation, report due
    
    

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    background photo by susan ruff