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Consider small amplitude waves: (small free
surface slope)
Assume amplitude small compared to wavelength, i.e.,
. Consequently:
,
and we keep only linear terms in
,
:
Finally:
Linear (Airy) Waves in constant finite
depth
{infinite depth}
Given
:
Solution of 2D Periodic Plane Progressive
Waves (using separation of variables)
Math ...(solve (1), (2),
(3))
Answer:
where
is the wave amplitude
.
- 1.
- At
(say),
periodic in
with
wavelength:
figure
- 2.
- At
(say),
periodic in
with period:
figure
- 3.
-
Following a point with velocity
,
i.e.
the
phase of
does not change:
phase velocity.