Last updated mid Feb, 2006.
UIAA Standards
Cam
Shape
Ice
Screw Testing presentation slides
Carabiner Fatigue
presentation slides
The Yowie Factor
a simple estimate of load rate during climber fall arrest, presentation slides
Standards
Evolution presentation slides about the development of climbing and
climbing equipment standards
Steve
Attaway's
Rope System Analysis
Attaway
& Weber, Predicting rope impact forces using a non-linear force deflection
Chuck
Weber's Fall factors and life safety ropes: a closer look
Chuck
Weber's Analysis of impact force equations
Li
etal Use
of `chalk' in rock climbing
Martyn Pavier Experimental and theoretical simulations of climbing falls
O. Henkel, M. Schmid, A.B. Spierings Water absorption and the
effects of moisture on the dynamic
properties of synthetic mountaineering ropes
Clyde Soles Climbing Ropes -- UIAA Sharp Edge Certification
UIAA Journal: Equipment and its applications
JOURNAL OF SPORTS SCIENCE & MEDICINE
Old Sports
Engineering
Panorama The German Alpine Club's bi-monthly publication (no english translation) 5 2004 & 6 2004 are about gym safety
BergUndSteigen a German language publication on managing risk in
mountains (no english translation), archives available
without subscription
British Standards
Online CEN Standards, requires MIT domain name or kerberos
tickets.
ASTM standards requires MIT domain name and kerberos
tickets
Tom Moyer's Rope
and Gear Testing Page a number of well thought out articles of
relevance to the climbing community.
Current Mountain
Rescue Association Grant Awards a number of relevent
papers do not seem to be available, including:
Sicherheit in Firn und Eis, DAV Taetigkeitsbericht 1980-1983
The German Alpine Club Safety Committee, edited by Pit Schubert and
Helmut Maegdefrau, German Alpine Club, Munich, 1985
DAV Taetigkeitsbericht 1974-1979
The German Alpine Club Safety Committee, edited by Pit Schubert and
Helmut Maegdefrau, German Alpine Club, Munich, 1979 (includes english
summaries)
Sicherheit und Risiko in Fels und Eis, Volume I, Pit
Schubert, German Alpine Club/Bergverlag Rother GmbH, 2001 (german language)
Sicherheit und Risiko in Fels und Eis, Volume II, Pit
Schubert, German Alpine Club/Bergverlag Rother GmbH, 2002 (german
language)
Sicherheit und Risiko in Fels und Eis, Volume III, Pit
Schubert, German Alpine Club/Bergverlag Rother GmbH, 2006 (german
language)
Handbook of Rope Fibre TechnologyH.A. McKenna, John
W. S. Hearle, N. O'Hear, CRC Press, Boca Raton, 2004
The Engineering of Sport 5, vols I & II, Ed. M. hubbard, R.D. Mehta &
J.M. Pallis, ISEA, 2004 -- especially grip strength & chalk
The Engineering of Sport 6, vols I, II, & III,
Ed. E.F. Moritz & S. Haake, ISEA, 2006, especially finger tendon
strength, forces on climbing holds, fatigue in ice ax picks, and belay
device models